In the early days of the Year of the Dragon (Giáp Thìn), I embarked on a journey from Vinh City southward, through the right bank of the Lam River, an area formerly known as the "five southern regions" (including Khánh Sơn, Nam Kim, Nam Phúc, Nam Cường, and Nam Trung). This trip was also an opportunity to further explore the traces left by our ancestors 600 years ago. This area was once an important base for Lê Lợi's rebel army during the early days of their uprising against the invading Ming forces.
From Vinh city, crossing the Yen Xuan bridge, I headed straight towards the Thien Nhan mountain range. Under the spring rain, the Lam River was shrouded in mist, and the Thien Nhan range, less than 25 km from Vinh city, was faintly visible. Stopping at the Nam Kim commune People's Committee office, I was personally guided to the ancient citadel by Mr. Tu Hong Quang, the commune's cultural officer. At the foot of Thien Nhan mountain, the road ended, so we had to leave our vehicle and walk. From the old, faded signpost at the foot of the mountain, we walked about a kilometer further into the mountains towards Dong Chu peak, through a dense acacia forest planted by the locals, and the remnants of the Luc Nien ancient citadel gradually appeared. Due to the erosion of time, only a few sections of the citadel remained, covered in moss and decaying grass.
According to historical records, the Luc Nien citadel was rectangular in shape and built using stone masonry in late 1424, when Le Loi's rebel army had to retreat to establish a base in the South (in present-day Nghe An and Ha Tinh provinces). Besides Luc Nien, the citadel was also known as Luc Hoa, located halfway up Dong Chu peak in the Thien Nhan mountain range. However, the name Luc Nien is most commonly used because, according to explanations, the citadel was built precisely six years after King Le Loi raised the banner of rebellion until his retreat to the South (1418-1424).
Situated halfway up the mountain, Luc Nien Fortress was considered a forward outpost of Le Loi's rebel army after they marched south, guarding the northern flank of the main army, which was then stationed in Do Gia district (present-day Huong Son - Ha Tinh). From here, the Lam Son rebel command could oversee and control a vast area of the Lam and La river basins and monitor the activities of the Ming army in Nghe An fortress (located on Thanh Mountain, present-day Hung Nguyen district).
In Bui Duong Lich's Nghe An Chronicle, the passage about Thien Nhan Mountain (Bui Duong Lich's spelling is Thien Nhan) states: “Thien Nhan Mountain in Thanh Chuong district is the mountain that stands guard in the district. From Kim Nhan Mountain running eastward, layer after layer, three large mountains rise in the middle, called Tam Thai. This mountain range has 999 peaks in total. Each peak has a dynamic shape like a thousand galloping horses, majestic in its grandeur, collectively called Thien Nhan Mountain. Dong Chu Peak is to the south, with an ancient citadel more than 10 miles long (Dong Chu Peak is also known as Dong Tru Mountain; the ancient citadel is called Binh Ngo Citadel), the rocks at the foot of the citadel are shaped like people, horses, spears, and lances. To the north of the mountain there is a babbling stream, flowing down the slope called Bo Dai Stream. At the foot of Hoang Tam Peak is the temporary residence (where the king stayed when traveling abroad), of King Le Thai To, called Luc Nien Citadel. The Chronicle records: The king led his army from Kha Luu Pass to Da Loi village, Tho Du district.” (In Thanh Chuong during the Ming dynasty), the old and young there vied with each other to bring betel leaves and wine to welcome and offer, saying, "We never expected to see the majesty of our former country again today..."
In his book "Ốc lậu thoại" (Stories from a Leaky House) – a collection of over 50 poems and essays, including commemorative pieces and reflections in the style of "expressing one's aspirations" – Dr. Bùi Dương Lịch also wrote about Thiên Nhẫn Mountain:The land borders three treacherous rivers/Mountains like a thousand galloping horses/Dividing Thanh Chuong and Huong Son districts into two paths/The Lam and Pho rivers meet at the crossroads/Hoan Chau and Cuu Duc are powerful strongholds/Tra and Cao mountains control distant borders/On that day, the pacification of the Ngo was carried out/The enemy was defeated to build a new dynasty.
This is also one of the first historical sites in Nghe An to be classified in the Northern region. According to Decision No. 313-VH/VP dated April 28, 1962, of the Ministry of Culture of the Democratic Republic of Vietnam, on the classification of historical sites and scenic spots throughout the Northern region, Thien Nhan Mountain and Luc Nien Citadel were one of three sites (along with Dung Quyet Mountain – Phuong Hoang Trung Do area and Lam Thanh Mountain) in Nghe An recognized as historical sites and scenic spots requiring protection under State law. The classified historical sites and scenic spots were managed by local cultural departments (throughout various periods), and the responsibility for their protection rested with all levels of government…
This shows that, during a time when the country faced countless difficulties, with the resistance war against the American invasion and the reunification of the country entering its most intense phase, Thien Nhan Mountain and Luc Nien Citadel still played an important role, recognized and highly valued. Sadly, after more than 60 years of being classified as a historical site and 600 years since Luc Nien Citadel was built by our ancestors, this place remains desolate and in danger of gradually fading into oblivion.
Not far from the Luc Nien Pagoda, at the foot of the mountain, lies the tomb of La Son Phu Tu Nguyen Thiep (1723-1804) and his first wife, Dang Thi Nghi (1730-1785). Nguyen Thiep's tomb was classified as a National Historical Monument by the Ministry of Culture and Information (now the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism) in Decision No. 921-QD/BT dated July 20, 1994.
Besides the tomb, which is still cared for by the local authorities, the most regrettable thing is that the house of this renowned scholar has been demolished, leaving only a screen and the old brick foundation facing north, overlooking Thanh Lake. Leading us to visit the tomb of his ancestor, Mr. Le Ngoc Chau – a resident of Hamlet 6, Nam Kim Commune, who has been in charge of the tomb since 1994 – after it was recently classified as a national historical site, could not hide his sadness as he recounted that since he was a child, he had seen Nguyen Thiep's house faintly visible on the mountain next to the tomb. However, the house with its three rooms and curved roof was later demolished and used as the headquarters of the former cooperative, and it has not been restored to this day.
Standing right on the foundation of his ancestral home, gazing into the distance, across the vast expanse of Thanh Lake, one sees the Lam River and the Dai Hue mountain range. For a man like the renowned scholar La Son Phu Tu Nguyen Thiep, choosing a secluded retreat nestled against the mountains, facing the river, and with the Dai Hue range as a natural screen, must certainly not have been a simple matter.
I imagine that hundreds of years ago, when Nghe An citadel was located at the foot of Lam Thanh mountain, to reach the foot of Thien Nhan mountain one had to cross the wide Lam River, many deep streams, and dense forests. Strangely enough, in the very year of his death (1804), Nghe An citadel was also moved by King Gia Long (the beginning of the Nguyen dynasty), who had by then defeated the Tay Son brothers, to the northwest of Dung Quyet mountain, not far from where La Son Phu Tu Nguyen Thiep had advised King Quang Trung to choose as the capital – Phuong Hoang Trung Do.
Regarding La Son Phu Tu Nguyen Thiep, historical records indicate that he was from Nguyet Ao village, Lai Thach commune, La Son district (now Kim Song Truong commune, Can Loc district, Ha Tinh province). He passed the Huong Giai examination in 1743 and held positions such as: Instructor of Anh Do prefecture; District Chief of Thanh Giang. In 1768, he resigned from his official position and went into seclusion. During the Tay Son dynasty, he received three invitations from Emperor Quang Trung to serve the country (the first in 1786; the second and third in 1787). He was entrusted with important responsibilities such as selecting the land for the construction of Phuong Hoang Trung Do; later, he was appointed Director of the Sung Chinh Institute of Nam Hoa – the national center for translating Chinese books into Nom script. This institute brought together many famous scholars from Nghe An province such as: Hoang Giap Bui Duong Lich, Doctor Phan Bao Dinh, Nguyen Cong, Nguyen Thien… playing a significant role in laying the foundation for educational reform during the Tay Son dynasty. The goal was to revitalize and promote the Nôm script, making it the official writing system and gradually freeing it from the influence of Chinese culture.
Since 1792, when King Quang Trung suddenly passed away, Nguyen Thiep accepted an invitation from King Canh Thinh to go to the capital Phu Xuan (Hue), but due to changing times, he once again returned to the foot of Thien Nhan mountain to live in seclusion, practicing medicine for the people and teaching children in the surrounding area as a source of joy.
Although he lived a secluded life in the mountains, La Son Phu Tu Nguyen Thiep was always highly respected and revered by kings, lords, and scholars throughout the country. Besides his integrity, his talent and contributions to politics, scholarship, geography, education, and literature are a precious legacy for future generations.
Despite its historical, cultural, and scenic value, the ancient citadel of Luc Nien on the Thien Nhan mountain range and the tomb of La Son Phu Tu Nguyen Thiep have not been properly preserved and exploited, which is extremely regrettable.
