Where the sea recedes, the village advances

The elders in Nghi Tien fishing village confirmed that since the 14th century, a few families from other regions came here to settle and establish villages, with the main occupation being fishing. They were fishermen from Quynh Luu, Dien Chau districts and Ha Tinh province on their way to sea to fish, drifted here and decided to stop and reclaim land and establish a village. In the past, this place was mainly mountains and streams, creeks and inlets with steep slopes.

Dấu vết biển lùi Nghi Tiến. Ảnh: Lê Mạnh Thắng
Traces of Nghi Tien retreating sea. Photo: Le Manh Thang

After the geological changes and the sea retreat, quite large alluvial plains were formed, interspersed with wild lakes, lagoons, and creeks. Today, in Nghi Tien commune, there is still Go Diep, about 3 hectares wide and about 10 meters high, where fossilized clams and scallops are found in blocks, considered a vestige of the sea from ancient times.

Although they came from many different regions and families, the residents who settled in Nghi Tien commune soon formed an increasingly stable community. Villages were gradually formed, the relationships between members became increasingly close, helping each other to make a living, fighting the harshness of the sea and many lurking enemies.

Hai Ba and Hai Don villages were formed, the hills and mounds along the coast and at the foot of the mountains grew roofs and lush green gardens. Later on, Nghi Tien residents became more and more crowded, partly due to the proliferation, partly due to people from everywhere continuing to come here to do business and live.

Nét hồn hậu của ngư dân Nghi Tiến. Ảnh: Lê Mạnh Thắng
The honest features of Nghi Tien fishermen. Photo: Le Manh Thang

The village became more and more crowded and prosperous, the people were always united, striving for a prosperous life and together building the increasingly developed homeland. The families: Luu, Tran, Ho, Le, Hoang, Nguyen, Pham… drank from the same well, enjoyed the cool breeze under the village banyan tree and shared the benefits from the sea and mountains; together developed and expanded the roads to trade with the outside world.

In front is the vast ocean, surrounded by majestic mountains, the people of Nghi Tien commune mainly live on fishing, growing rice, mining construction materials and later shrimp farming. In particular, fishing has existed for a long time and is considered a traditional profession, because the first residents to settle here were fishermen who went out to sea to fish. Through many ups and downs, prosperity and historical changes, to this day, the people of Nghi Tien commune are still attached to the profession passed down by their ancestors.

Người dân Nghi Tiến gắn bó với biển khơi và những con thuyền. Ảnh: Lê Mạnh Thắng
Nghi Tien people are attached to the sea and boats. Photo: Le Manh Thang

Like many villages in Vietnam, when completing the settlement and village establishment, the people of Nghi Tien commune joined hands to build cultural works to consolidate the community and entrust their spiritual life. Here, there used to be a Van Thanh house to worship Confucianism and honor Confucianism, encouraging children to pursue the path of education and mandarin exams.

Bach Y Tuyet Son Bodhisattva Pagoda was built in 1801 so that people could have a peaceful and virtuous spiritual life. Village communal houses and temples were built for people to pray for peace in the face of storms and protection from Thanh Hoang and gods before each boat trip...

On the last afternoon of the year, I followed Mr. Hoang Khac Canh (nearly 80 years old) in Tien Phong hamlet, Nghi Tien commune, to walk to some places around the village. The first stop was Hai Ba communal house, built in the 17th century, which has been restored and repaired many times but still retains its ancient and solemn features.

Đình Hải Bá, xã Nghi Tiến (Nghi Lộc). Ảnh: Công Kiên
Hai Ba Communal House, Nghi Tien Commune (Nghi Loc). Photo: Cong Kien

The communal house is associated with the formation and development of the village, is a place for community activities and the spiritual deposit of the residents of the fishing village. On each trip to sea, fishermen often offer incense and pray for the protection of the village's tutelary god. At the beginning of each spring, the village holds a grand ceremony and organizes a boat racing festival, making the life of the fishing village more bustling.

During the two resistance wars against France and the US, the communal house yard was the place to send off young men from the fishing village to the battlefield, resounding with the oath of sacrifice to protect the country. This was also the place to hold memorial services to send off those who died for the independence and freedom of the Fatherland.

What is special is that around Hai Ba communal house, about 1 km away, there are 4 village wells, named Den well, Gia well, Be well and Dinh well. These are the places that provide water for daily life for the residents in the area. Local people say that even during long droughts, the wells never run out of water. Nowadays, people have their own wells to meet their family's daily needs, but the village wells are still preserved and respected, and are considered relics of the village.

Giếng Đền, xóm Tiền Phong, xã Nghi Tiến (Nghi Lộc). Ảnh: Công Kiên
Temple Well, Tien Phong hamlet, Nghi Tien commune (Nghi Loc). Photo: Cong Kien

We visited each well in turn, all of which were kept almost intact, with stone slabs stacked on top of each other, the well walls built of mountain stones. On the temple well walls there were also some Chinese characters, recalling the scene of a communal, happy life and the imprint of the village and commune community in the past.

Leaving the village well, Mr. Hoang Khac Canh led us to the edge of the coastal mountain, where there was a small temple, on the cliff next to it was a stele engraved with the words "This is the temple to worship the god of the South Sea". According to Mr. Canh, the god of the South Sea is the whale, so it is also called the Ong Tho temple, built by the people of Nghi Tien commune more than 100 years ago, after discovering and organizing the burial of a whale that had washed ashore under the cliff. Since then, every time they sailed out to sea, the fishermen of Hai Ba village often burned incense and prayed for calm skies, calm seas, and for the boat to be full of fish and shrimp when they returned...

During the war, Ong Tho Temple was continuously bombed and gunned down by American warships, causing it to collapse. The temple no longer exists, but it still exists in the memories and spiritual lives of the residents of Hai Ba village in the past, Tien Phong hamlet today. On the first day of the month, the full moon day, and on holidays, the temple on the edge of the cliff by the sea is always filled with incense smoke.

Mộ cá voi tại bãi Tiền Phong, xã Nghi Tiến (Nghi Lộc). Ảnh: Công Kiên
Whale grave at Tien Phong beach, Nghi Tien commune (Nghi Loc). Photo: Cong Kien

On Tien Phong beach, there is also a small temple, which is often called Mau Temple. In the temple grounds, there is a tomb (mausoleum) built of bricks, on the stele is written: "Mortal Whale Tomb, November 2016". Mr. Canh said that at the end of 2016, a whale died and washed ashore, right in front of Mau Temple.

Upon hearing the news, people immediately pooled money to buy a mat to bury the whale and build a grave for it. On holidays and Tet, families would visit the grave to take care of it and burn incense as if it were a family member. According to the folk beliefs of the coastal region, whales spend their entire lives swimming in the vast ocean. When they drift to a place to rest, it proves that this place is a good place and their lives will be peaceful. Whale burials are always carried out solemnly and sacredly, showing respect.

Nghi Tien Commune is currently located between two famous coastal tourist areas, Bai Lu (Nghi Loc) and Cua Lo Town. Roads are being invested in and upgraded, creating conditions for connection and development. Although life has changed, the people here always hope to preserve the beauty and the rustic life of the coastal village...

Người dân Nghi Tiến gắn bó với biển khơi và những con thuyền. Ảnh: Lê Mạnh Thắng
Nghi Tien people are attached to the sea and boats. Photo: Le Manh Thang