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Lesson 7: The Peaceful Sound of Temple Bells

In the afternoon on Song Tu Tay Island, the sound of temple bells echoes. On this remote island, the sound of the bells blends with the gentle murmur of waves and wind, creating a familiar and tranquil atmosphere; the bells evoke images of any Vietnamese village on the mainland, with its traditional banyan trees, riverside docks, and village communal house.

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No one knows exactly when Song Tu Tay Pagoda was built, perhaps hundreds of years ago when fishing groups from the Nguyen Dynasty came here to exploit and catch seafood. All that is known is that, over time, the pagoda was recently restored in 2008. The pagoda grounds cover a total area of ​​1 hectare, comprising three sections: a main hall and two guesthouses for monks. The majestic pagoda faces the sea and is currently rebuilt in the style of ancient pagodas in Northern Vietnam, with a two-wing structure, curved tiled roofs with eaves, and a frame and columns made of precious ironwood. Song Tu Tay Pagoda houses seven statues: six meticulously crafted from white stone, and one smaller statue of the Goddess of Mercy made of jade – a gift from the World Buddhist Federation to Prime Minister Nguyen Tan Dung during his visit to Myanmar, which the Prime Minister then donated to Song Tu Tay Pagoda.



The triple-arched gate of Song Tu Tay Pagoda faces the sea.

Along with the statue of Saint Tran, the pagoda forms a unique architectural complex deeply rooted in the traditional spiritual culture of the Vietnamese people on Song Tu Tay Island. Every morning and evening, the sound of the temple bells resonates, blending with the waves and the rustling wind. The bells are rung by the only abbot here, Venerable Thich Thanh Thanh. Over a cup of tea fragrant with pure lotus blossoms, the Venerable explained the meaning of the bells: According to old customs, the morning bells were rung at 4 a.m., but due to the unique conditions on the island, the pagoda is near the military camp, and understanding that the soldiers often train at night, the Venerable only rings the bells when the 5 a.m. alarm bells. The morning bells awaken people, signifying the beginning of a new day and inspiring each person to live a meaningful life. The evening bells are rung at 6:15 PM, signaling the end of another day and once again reminding everyone to live ethically, benefiting themselves and others in particular, and bringing benefits to the country and nation in general.



The temple bells ring peacefully on the island.

According to Venerable Thich Thanh Thanh, the presence of the temple here has met the spiritual needs of the people. Every evening, many islanders still come here to make pilgrimages and pray. The Venerable guides everyone in chanting scriptures, living according to the Buddha's teachings, praying for peace in the country, the well-being of all sentient beings; praying for the liberation of ancestors, heroes, martyrs, and those who perished in the war, and for blessings and protection for all the people of our country... And fishermen from Quang Ngai, Binh Dinh, Phu Yen, and Khanh Hoa provinces who regularly fish in the Truong Sa sea area often stop by to light incense and pray to the Buddha. They came seeking spiritual and emotional support, hoping to alleviate their anxieties and fears, and to find shelter amidst the turbulent seas surrounding them… Venerable Thich Thanh Thanh affirmed: “The temple is where people entrust their religious and spiritual beliefs. The temple has become a cultural symbol of the Vietnamese people. The restoration of Song Tu Tay Temple once again clearly demonstrates the history of Vietnamese people's lives on the Truong Sa archipelago. Truong Sa and Hoang Sa will forever be an integral part of the Vietnamese homeland.”

Amidst the melodious chime of the late afternoon bells, we met Mr. and Mrs. Phan Thanh Cong and their two children preparing a tray of fresh pomelos and apples, recently shipped by boat, along with red and yellow papayas – a specialty of the island – to offer at the temple. Mr. Cong said: “The temple has been renovated solemnly, and the people are very happy. Going to the temple makes my heart more peaceful, and I feel that the island is no different from the mainland, which strengthens my faith and helps me face the storms here more strongly… As for fishermen like Mr. Nguyen Hung Phuong from Phu Yen province, they come to the temple and the Buddha primarily with sincerity. In this sacred place, quietly praying, Mr. Phuong prays for himself and other Vietnamese fishermen fishing in the East Sea to avoid the unpredictable storms and dangers of the seafaring profession; he hopes for calm seas, gentle waves, and good fortune on their voyages to earn a living… Lieutenant Colonel Nguyen Trong Binh, Political Officer of Song Tu Tay Island, shared: “As Tet (Lunar New Year) comes, the soldiers on the frontline islands of the Fatherland remain steadfast in protecting our sacred sovereignty. Along with offering incense at the Monument to National Hero Hung Dao Vuong, the soldiers still go to the temple – this is a beautiful aspect of our spiritual and cultural life that needs to be preserved.”



Venerable Thich Thanh Thanh speaks with the young soldiers.

Before the night sea, Venerable Thich Thanh Thanh shared with us his views on both religious and worldly life, and how Buddhism has accompanied the nation. As a true ascetic who had practiced meditation in many places around the world, upon returning to Khanh Hoi Pagoda in Nha Trang City, and hearing that the islanders were requesting monks to come to the pagoda, the Venerable immediately submitted a request to the Buddhist Sangha. Firstly, because the place is very quiet and conducive to meditation, and secondly, to contemplate many things. Amidst the peaceful sound of the pagoda bells on Song Tu Tay, we were reminded of Uncle Ho through these verses: “There is a Bodhisattva with a thousand hands and a thousand eyes / Who radiates light from dozens of arms / There is a Bodhisattva from the Ly Dynasty with only his head remaining / Yet still intact in our hearts thanks to the bun of hair left behind by King Hung / And the Diamond Buddha on firm feet /…maintaining a Vietnamese stance…”

Text: Thanh Chung; Photos: Minh Thong (Email from Truong Sa)