The sea of my homeland
(Baonghean)I set sail for Mat Island on a small wooden boat as the last page of 2012 was about to end. The sea was a deep black. The sea was rough, level 4, and the wooden boat trudged patiently through each wave...
The story goes that during the Trung Sisters' rebellion, there was a married couple who were both generals under their command. The wife, named To Nuong, was from Ha Tay, a silk-producing region. When the enemy suppressed the rebellion, the couple became separated. She sailed to search for her husband, who was lost in Ham Hoa (present-day Dien Chau), but her boat was blown ashore by a storm onto this small island. In her final days on the island, even as her strength waned, To Nuong still gazed towards the mainland, praying for her husband's safety. Admiring her unwavering loyalty, the people named this small island in the sea off Nghe An province "Eye Island." As time passed, Eye Island became the watchful eyes guarding the peace of Nghe An province.
The engine hummed softly, slowing down. Ahead, two islands appeared, resembling the eyes of a young woman. The captain called down, "We've reached the islands, prepare to dock." We all became alert and excited. On the pier, officers and soldiers of Mat Island, in their neat uniforms, stood in a line in the rain to welcome the ship.
The cement steps wound across enormous boulders, the smallest of which could weigh hundreds of tons. We didn't know how the soldiers had managed to create this small path. There were strange, large trees growing and covering even the biggest rocks, their roots hanging down in clusters. Suddenly, we heard a "khẹc, khẹc" sound in the trees, and when we looked up, we saw several monkeys playfully chasing each other through the roots.
The battalion commander's house was nestled beneath the trees, pressed against the cliff. I smelled a faint fragrance carried on the wind. Following the scent of incense, my steps led me to the Monument to the Heroes and Martyrs who sacrificed their lives on the island. Leaning against the cliff, the majestic memorial looked out at the white-crested waves that crashed against the island's base day and night. I stood silently before the white frangipani flowers, picked by the soldiers and placed on the altar. Here, the names and dates of the heroic sacrifices of these men in the war against America are preserved as a testament, reminding future generations that: These islands, these meters of water, all bear the blood and bones of our forefathers.
Following the winding path to the highest peak, massive rocks, as big as houses, hung precariously along the edge of the road, seemingly ready to fall at any moment. It was cold, but in the watchtowers halfway up the mountain, the island soldiers stood solemnly on guard, their eyes fixed on the sea. A sturdy observation post stood there. The fog and rain obscured my view of the sea, leaving only a deep black. The wind howled, carrying a biting chill that lashed against my face. Major Lam, the island commander, led me to the memorial plaque commemorating August 17, 1968, when enemy missiles struck the combat battery. Scattered around were deep marks etched into the rock by bombs and bullets from that year.
Mat Island is located offshore, about 18 nautical miles from the mainland. It's a crucial outpost, like a watchful eye in the middle of the ocean. Mat Island is mainly composed of large rocks, scattered across its entire surface. Farming conditions on the island are extremely difficult. The soldiers have utilized the rare rocky crevices and open spaces to create terraced vegetable plots, interwoven among the rocks.
Patrolling on Eye Island. Photo: Dinh Sam
That's why fresh water is very scarce on the island, relying mainly on rainwater. All rainwater on the island is carefully collected and channeled through pipes into large underground tanks, stored for use throughout the dry season. In the living quarters and bathrooms, we saw the inscription "Freshwater is the most precious resource on the island."
In the afternoon, the rain had subsided, and the sea was no longer as rough as it had been in the morning. We were chatting with the commanding officers of the island when suddenly a father and son, fishermen carrying a batfish, entered the battalion's command building. We learned that they were from Dien Chau district and had been rescued by the soldiers on Mat Island after their boat capsized due to engine failure in 2010. Since then, every year around Tet (Lunar New Year), the father and son come to the island to express their gratitude to the soldiers with a gift from the sea they caught. I also learned that, in addition to training and combat readiness, the Mat Island Combined Battalion also undertakes search and rescue operations.
As night fell, I followed Comrade Moong Van Bun to inspect the vegetable plots planted on the island. Bun is a Khmu ethnic minority, having enlisted a year ago with the rank of private. Moong Van Bun also mentioned that there are currently seven comrades from ethnic minority groups in western Nghe An province, such as the Khmu, Thai, and Tho, serving on Mat Island. I asked Bun, "Tet (Lunar New Year) is coming soon, do you miss home?" With a gentle smile, Bun said, "At first, I did miss home. In August, the unit gave me seven days of leave, but after only three days at home, I returned to the unit because I missed the island so much."
As night fell, the wind began to pick up. The wind on the island is usually fiercer than on the mainland. Along the road around the island, the soldiers regularly take turns patrolling. Out at sea, not far from the island, the lights of cargo ships are seen anchored, huddled against Mat Island to avoid the wind.
Flag-raising ceremony on Eye Island
On the morning of January 1, 2013, as dawn broke, all the officers and soldiers of Mat Island lined up neatly in the courtyard to welcome the new year. In front, the national flag fluttered in the sea breeze. Behind them, the waves crashed against the cliffs, creating a white foam. The eyes of the soldiers on Mat Island solemnly looked up at the national flag. I sensed in those eyes a steadfast oath and unwavering determination. The Vietnamese national anthem was sung majestically and proudly amidst the vast ocean.
I was speechless, for this was the first time I had heard the Vietnamese national anthem on my homeland island, amidst the vast ocean. The same melody, the same lyrics, and a mixture of love for my country and pride suddenly welled up in my chest…
The Son