Na Ngoi in the warm spring

(Baonghean) - 1. "The land of Ky Son is truly selective," it's not just a matter of wanting to go. I had to hold my breath when I encountered the steep, winding, and treacherous road; in many places, as the ox cart passed, all I could see was a vast expanse of reeds stretching as far as the eye could see. Precarious. Deep in the abyss. And in return, I received my first precious and incredibly novel gift: an endless expanse of mountains unfolded before me.

It took four hours to travel approximately 70 km from Muong Xen town to reach Na Ngoi commune, home to the majestic Pu Xai Lai Leng mountain. A thick white mist enveloped everything, clinging to people's feet like a fairy in a fluffy cloak fluttering in the air. The mist only dissipated when the sun shone down. The deep, silvery green of the forest blended with the vast expanse of turquoise water in the streams rushing into the Nam Mo River.

Harvest.

Na Ngoi is the commune with the largest area of ​​terraced rice fields in Ky Son district, with 450 hectares. Since the introduction of a self-flowing irrigation system, the villagers have been able to irrigate their crops more easily, allowing them to plant two rice crops per year, eliminating the need to worry about rice shortages during the lean season. They have so much rice that they can't consume it all; the Mong rice is even carried down the mountain to the Muong Xen market to compete with rice from the lowlands. Mong rice has gained a reputation for its fragrant aroma, stickiness, and high nutritional value, making it very valuable (20,000 VND/kg). On their way back to the village, their baskets are full of books for their children and beautiful clothes for the whole family, preparing for the traditional Tet holiday. With more investment in seeds and scientific and technical advancements, Na Ngoi has the potential to become a rice granary on the border of Ky Son. This will become a reality because the Mong people are known for their diligence and hard work. Since the establishment of the Youth Settlement Village under the guidance and support of the 10th Youth Volunteer Brigade, the lives of the people of Na Ngoi are changing for the better every day. The dream of escaping poverty has motivated the villagers to expand the area for growing corn, pumpkins, taro, ginger, and other crops; and to develop the raising of buffaloes, cows, pigs, and black chickens using advanced techniques… gradually becoming profitable commodities. The villages of Ka Tren and Ka Duoi are bustling with trade. On sunny days, trucks even reach the villages. The houses with samu wood roofs are now sturdy, and the cast-iron pans are no longer moved. The cattle are raised in stables, and clean vegetables and food are gradually becoming marketable goods. Recently, Na Ngoi was one of 12 communes in Ky Son district to receive breeding cows as support for poor and near-poor households with difficult circumstances, according to Government Resolution 30a. After receiving the cows, the families signed commitments to build stables, carefully tend to the cows, and raise them using new methods. The district sent agricultural extension officers to the villages and communes to conduct training courses on livestock farming techniques, grass cultivation, and proper cow care… A prosperous spring is arriving in the villages of Na Ngoi.

Going to the market to buy Tet supplies.

2. The road leading to Tong Khu village is ablaze with the vibrant yellow of mustard flowers swaying in the spring sunshine, while the peach blossoms of the Mong people paint the entire area a rosy pink. Everything blends together to create a stunning picture in the western part of Nghe An province.

The golden rays of sunlight still linger, warming the cherry blossom-lined paths and following visitors all the way to the doorstep of the Tong Khu village chief's family home - Lau Giong No. The aroma of grilled meat hung in the kitchen is intoxicating. The Mong people's kitchen fires never lose their warmth in winter, so no matter how unfamiliar you are, you will feel a sense of comfort when gathered around the kitchen, eating just a taro root roasted over the charcoal, and feeling the intoxicating connection between the land and the people that binds the ethnic group together.

In the attic of Mr. Nỏ's house hang strings of meat that have been smoked over the past few days. “Our family is like any other; every Tet (Lunar New Year) we must have smoked meat and glutinous rice wine. The young people go to the ball-throwing festival, play the flute, and go on dates, while we older people sit by the fire, roasting the smoked meat in the coals, tearing it apart, and drinking wine while wishing each other a Happy New Year.” Smoked meat is a traditional dish of the highlanders here. The animals they hunt or slaughter are all stored in the attic to use during rainy or windy weather, or during holidays. Besides pork, which is the most commonly smoked meat, beef and rat meat are also prepared in large quantities for Tet and saved for later consumption when they go to work in the fields.

There's a dish that the locals always prepare during every festival and holiday: thang co. It's made from almost all kinds of vegetables and fruits harvested from the forest, along with horse or rat meat that has been smoked for a long time. The village head, Tong Khu, is young; his eldest daughter is in secondary school in the district. He loves this land like his own flesh and blood, so when many people invited him to migrate to Laos to work, he resolutely refused. "If you want to get rich, you have to do it on the land of your ancestors. With knowledge, you will escape poverty." He said, then used a stick to stir the embers so the coals would glow red before grilling a piece of meat to treat his guests, his eyes filled with the passion of an artist. “Our village has 33 households, but none are excessively poor. We have little money, but we never lack rice. Almost everyone owns a motorbike, so transportation isn't as difficult as before. In the past, people got married at 12 or 13, but now they have to be of legal age to marry. Most families only have two children. The family with the most has four. In the future, our village is striving to achieve the title of 'Cultural Village'.”

Leaving Mr. Lau Giong No's house while the rice wine was still warm, intoxicated by the fragrant mountain air, I saw a vibrant red field of poinsettias on the hillside, and the song "The Hmong People Thank the Party" emanating from the stilt house at the beginning of the village. Looking around, I was surprised and delighted to see that every house had a satellite dish. The road back to Muong Xen town was less cold thanks to the crackling sound of the fires burning for dinner as the villagers along the roadside prepared their meals. And it was even warmer because of the kindness the people here showed to visitors from afar. Simple and sincere, I took ginger, taro, and sugarcane with me, promising to go to Pu Xai Lai Leng mountain next spring to watch the bullfighting festival.

Text and photos:Tue Vu