Chi Linh - a land of cultural heritage

(Baonghean) - Located on the right bank of the Lam River, near the center of Ro, Chi Linh village (Vo Liet commune, Thanh Chuong district) is a culturally rich rural area with a tradition of studiousness and revolutionary spirit. Here, the banyan tree, the riverside, and the village communal house – characteristic images of the old countryside – still remain…

Chi Linh village is the birthplace of Phan Da, a young, talented, and patriotic general in the 15th century. Growing up during the Ming invasion of Vietnam, Phan Da joined Le Loi's rebel army. Appointed as a commanding general, he fought valiantly in battle, achieving resounding victories at Bo Dang, Tra Lan, Tien Hoa, and Binh Ngo. During a battle on the left bank of the Lam River, he was severely wounded. His warhorse carried him to Vo Liet, where he breathed his last at the age of 18. For his immense contributions to driving out the Ming invaders and liberating the country, the Le dynasty issued a decree establishing the Bach Ma Temple in his hometown, known locally as Phu Noi – one of the four most beautiful temples in Nghe An province.

Vo Liet Temple.

In the center of the village is the Chi Linh temple, also known as Phu Ngoai, dedicated to Phan Da's parents and the General as the village's tutelary deity. According to the elders, the Chi Linh temple was once a grand structure, situated on several acres of land. Entering from the outside, one passed two elephant-shaped pillars, then an arched gateway guarded by civil and military officials, red and white horses, before reaching the main hall. The lower and upper halls each had three bays. Beyond the low wall on the right was the roof-laying house, and in front of it was a five-bay communal house, a place for community activities during religious ceremonies. Today, the grounds of the former temple are densely populated with houses, the only remaining ancient structure being the arched gateway built during the reign of Emperor Tu Duc. After many years, only traces remained; the temple dedicated to Phan Da's parents was restored by the local government and people in 2012.

In front of the Outer Palace, right next to the main road, stands a centuries-old banyan tree. Although no longer lush due to the ravages of historical storms, the ancient banyan tree remains a testament to the many changes that have taken place in this rural area. Next to it is the Palace Wharf, the gateway to the village, leading to the Lam River. For the people of Chi Linh, the banyan tree, the wharf, and the village communal house are familiar images that have become ingrained in their hearts and memories.

From the gate of the communal house, following the road to the village fields, lies the Vo Liet communal house. The communal house was begun in 1859 by the scholar Hoang Chinh Truc to worship the village's tutelary deity (Phan Da), Confucius, and other revered ancestors. The communal house boasts a grand architecture; through the large gate are four buildings: front, back, left, and right, forming a closed "mouth" shape. The back of the communal house has seven bays in a double-eave style, with eight majestic roofs. In front of the communal house are two rows of stele houses, housing six large stone steles inscribed in Chinese characters, recording the names of 455 successful individuals (bachelor's degree holders, bachelor's degree holders, doctorates holders, and vice-bachelor's degree holders) from the Vo Liet district, from the Le dynasty to the Nguyen dynasty. For 155 years, the Vo Liet communal house has not only been a place of worship and community activities, but it has also been a witness to many historical events: a meeting place for patriotic scholars such as Phan Boi Chau, Nguyen Sinh Sac, and Dang Nguyen Can; and a headquarters of the revolution during the 1930-1931 movement. The Vo Liet communal house was the place where the Party branch of Vo Liet commune was reorganized; the headquarters of the district government after the August Revolution; the Congress of Delegates of the Party Committee of Inter-region IV (1947) with the presence of General Nguyen Chi Thanh and Major General Nguyen Son; and the place where General Vo Nguyen Giap visited in 1986… Vo Liet communal house was recognized by the State as a National Historical and Cultural Monument in 1988 and has been restored and renovated, becoming a magnificent and worthy cultural center of the district, preserving the tradition of studiousness and revolution of the people of Thanh Chuong.

In the village, there is the Ton family ancestral temple, built during the Nguyen dynasty, famous for its descendants who made great contributions to their homeland and country, such as Mr. Lo Xuyen - Ton Duc Tien, and revolutionaries Ton Quang Phiệt, Ton Thi Que, and Ton Gia Chung… Currently, the temple still preserves two royal decrees from the Nguyen dynasty; and two ancient stone steles, carved by the students of these ancestors in the 28th year of Tu Duc (1875), recording the merits of the Ton family teachers in the work of educating people. The Ton family ancestral temple was recognized as a Provincial-level Historical Monument in 2012.

Visiting Vo Liet, exploring the land of Chi Linh, each step feels like immersing oneself in a historical space. Gazing at the ancient, moss-covered gate of the temple, one feels a sense of nostalgia for the old scenes and people of centuries past. Amidst the emerging new features, the "banyan tree, the riverbank, the village communal house" still resonate, echoing the sound of the "thirty-drum" of yesteryear, forever reminding descendants of their pride and the continuation of the heroic Soviet homeland's traditions.

Huy Thu