Thanh Vinh eel porridge

• April 10, 2014 17:32

(Baonghean) -Every time food connoisseurs come to Vinh City, they look for eel porridge. For those who have been away from home for a long time, eel porridge is considered a “culinary culture” on par with the aromatic bitterness of green tea, the sweet and nutty allure of sweet potatoes buried in rice husks, and the tomato sauce that is forever imbued in Nghe An poetry!

Illustration photo

Eel porridge! It's the same eel and the same spices, but just hanging up a sign at the restaurant doesn't necessarily mean you'll have delicious porridge! You have to make sure the eel is as white as frog meat, cooked but not mushy, each eel strand is still entangled with each other, the eel meat is still chewy when cooked, has a natural sweetness, the more customers look at the bowl of porridge the more pleased they are because the color of the eel blends with the opaque white color of the porridge, no matter how good their hearing is, they won't smell the fishy smell of eel! Not every restaurant owner has all of these secrets.

Now, all 20 wards and communes of Thanh Vinh have eel porridge shops, but gourmets often meet at the Quan Bau intersection in the morning, and in the evening or at midnight, they gather next to the Provincial Post Office guesthouse. It is the stomach that knows how to find a delicious eel porridge shop thanks to a clear head and a skillful tongue. Many passersby easily forget the name of the shop owner, forget the place where the shop is located, but the aftertaste of Thanh Vinh eel porridge, which has reached the level of culinary art, remains forever in people's hearts, forever with time. I intentionally do not mention the names of the shops ranked among the hundreds of eel porridge shops spread throughout Thanh Vinh, doing so would make one side respect the other and the other not. Well, it is better to let "god" remember and come to his "servant" by himself, because "money has eyes". The ancients were like that, but today it is even more so with the choice of what they need. Just know that in the competition on the "eel porridge front", there are many winners and many unsuccessful people. Usually each shop sells 5-7 kilos of eel per day, very few shops reach the record of 20-30 kilos. “High-class” shops serve intermittently, only three or four hours in the morning or evening because “if our children have rice to eat, let others have porridge”.

The eel catching talent in my hometown Nghe An has also become a legend. To catch eels, one must distinguish eel caves from crab caves and snake caves, and must identify the eel membrane before reaching out to catch them (the membrane is the color of the water film in front of the cave mouth). Eel membranes are clear, crab membranes are murky, snake membranes are sometimes murky and sometimes clear. With their eel hunting experience, the workers let crab houses “go on bail”, and young eels are given “suspended sentences”, they only sentence eels the size of their little finger or larger, they are so “professional” that they can tell how heavy the eel in the cave is by looking at the membrane. When they locate the membrane, they press hard with their feet at the end of the eel cave and immediately jump out to escape, but with the middle finger, index finger, and ring finger of their calloused hands, they create a “trident” position to tightly grip the eel’s neck and “pull” it out easily, easier than pulling up cassava from sandy soil in the rain. Eel hunting has also become a bad karma, thousands of bomb craters in my hometown have become lakes, ponds, and caves for eels to breed. Strangely, snails, frogs, shrimps, and crabs are easily extinct because of countless types of chemical fertilizers, but only eels "don't mind getting their heads dirty" and keep reproducing, growing to create a never-ending source of income for farmers.

It is said that once upon a time, poet Phung Quan from Hanoi was "recruited" to work for a long time at Dong Hieu Farm, Nghia Dan District. At that time, the bell pond was also collectively owned and no one dared to touch it without the order of the farm leaders. However, poet Phung Quan still had a way to exploit the potential of heaven and earth to improve the frugal meal. Poet Phung Quan mixed mud with buffalo dung, plastered the mixture in a 5-10 cm thick bamboo basket and dried it in the sun. The poet also created a lid that resembled the mouth of a basket. At night, the poet ordered someone to place the "salvation weapon" in the pond, and before dawn, the basket was full of eels weighing nearly several dozen kilos. Phung Quan's poetic talent and eel-trapping talent were equal. When he was a secretary, he found inspiration in poetry thanks to his eel-trapping talent.

After a delicious meal, I took out a 200,000 VND bill to pay for 10 bowls of eel porridge for the whole group. My friends were surprised: Why is it so cheap? "One skill mastered, one life of glory", the saying of the ancients is true for all times, especially true for the excellent eel porridge conductors of Nghe An, especially in the sunny and windy Thanh Vinh.

Symphony