Through the Gay tea region

(Baonghean) - Cao Son (Anh Son) is known as the land of Gay tea, famous throughout the province. This seemingly very common plant has become the mainstay, helping people escape poverty and improve their living standards. Farmers here are concerned with tea plants, their daily joys and sorrows are linked to the price of each bundle of tea...

After many missed appointments with the Gay tea land, I finally tried to arrange to have the opportunity to return to this special land. Choosing a sunny day on the weekend, we took a bus straight along the Ho Chi Minh road. The bus passed through Thanh An and Thanh Chuong - where there are beautiful tea islands; through Hanh Lam commune, also in Thanh Chuong district, a red address in the Nghe - Tinh Soviet Movement (1930 - 1931), and went a little further to reach Cao Son land of Anh Son district.

Gay tea has become the main crop in Cao Son commune, Anh Son district. Photo: Cong Kien

Through the lush, seemingly endless tea hills and the vast green acacia hills, we began to feel the changes and development prospects of this countryside.

Over a pot of green tea, the elders chatted, their stories often filled with excitement about their families, villages, and homelands, mixed with nostalgia for the old days. In the not-so-distant memories of the old people of Gay land, hardships, difficulties, and distances are clearly imprinted, a meal with meat and fish is a wish that seems so far away, never to come true.

In short, the Cao Son countryside has barren land and has no advantage in developing agricultural production. Some people explain that, adjacent to Thanh Chuong, Cao Son commune has the typical "barren and rocky land" characteristics of this midland district, so it will never escape poverty.

Nature does not favor fertile land but has given Cao Son land a special tea variety, the locals named the tea after the old Gay market in Linh Son commune. This is explained by the elders, before Cao Son commune did not have a market, the locals still had to bring tea to Gay market to sell, over time the market name became the tea brand.

Gay tea is sold along Ho Chi Minh road through Cao Son commune. Photo: Cong Kien

And I don't understand why on such a barren hill with such a harsh climate, Gay tea trees are still lush and have a unique flavor. Compared to tea from other regions, in terms of appearance, Gay tea leaves are thick but not large, the yellow-green color on the leaves is darker. When steeped in water, it gives off a strong aroma and spreads with the wind throughout the house, pouring out shimmering yellow water. When drinking, Gay tea has a strong bitter taste, and after a while, you can feel the sweet taste - something that tea from other places rarely has.

About 10 years ago, Gay tea was just a drink for the people of Gay land, and if sold, it could only reach a few neighboring districts. Then, the Ho Chi Minh road was upgraded, the road connecting National Highway 7A with Cao Son was paved, breaking the isolation, trade became extremely convenient, and life improved day by day.

Thanks to that, Gay tea products have the opportunity to spread out of Gay land to all regions, become commodities and affirm their brand throughout the province. And now the Gay tea area has been established with geographical indications to help visitors from near and far recognize a unique tea and food area in the Southwest of Nghe An.

Every day, 3-5 trucks come to Cao Son commune (Anh Son) to buy Gay tea. Photo: Cong Kien

Up to now, Cao Son has more than 500 hectares with more than 90% of households growing Gay tea, large households grow about 0.5 hectares, small households grow from 1 - 2 sao, earning at least about 3 million VND/month. There are tea gardens that are 40 - 50 years old. For Cao Son people, Gay tea has truly become the main crop, the main source of income for farmers. Every day, there are 3 - 5 trucks of traders coming to buy, not to mention dozens of motorbikes stacked higher than people's heads.

Gay tea is transported to all regions, down to Dien Chau, Vinh City, Ha Tinh, and all the way to Hanoi. In reality, the volume of tea that traders purchase daily is still small compared to the volume of products from farmers. Therefore, it is inevitable that prices will be forced down and the volume of purchases will be limited, and in the end, farmers will suffer.

Leaving Gay land, along with joy, we brought with us concerns, it is time for local leaders and relevant departments and agencies to study plans to expand the market for gay tea products, helping farmers expand production, improve their lives and promote development. Because, with an established brand, finding more directions for product output is feasible, the problem is that we need dedicated people.

Cong Kien