Banh Khoai from Ngo Market - a delicious dish from the coastal region of Nghe An.
In the coastal area of Quynh Luu district, there is a simple dish that captivates many people - Ngo Market's banh khoai (fried rice cakes). Behind these delicious cakes are many interesting stories.
It's unclear when exactly, but banh khoai (a type of savory pancake) has become a specialty, an indispensable dish for the people of the coastal communes in Quynh Luu district. Especially at Ngo Market – a famous coastal market – banh khoai is not only a familiar breakfast food but also a unique culinary cultural feature.
When visiting this area, one cannot miss the row of five small bánh khoái (fried rice pancake) stalls nestled close together, with smoke billowing from them every early morning. From around 8 to 9 a.m. is the busiest time at the market, with all the stalls crowded with customers, lining up to enjoy the hot, freshly made pancakes.
Ms. Thai Thi Xuan, a long-time pancake maker at Ngo Market, shared: "Every day I wake up at 3 a.m. to soak the rice and prepare the batter. By around 5 a.m., I light the stove and make pancakes in time to sell to customers. This job is hard work, but it's enjoyable because I get to serve the community and preserve a traditional dish."
Previously, the banh khoai (rice flour pancake) at Ngo Market typically had a grilled fish filling – a characteristic filling due to the market's proximity to the sea and its primary focus on serving the local people in coastal villages. The chewy, fragrant rice pancake combined with the rich flavor of grilled sea fish created a unique taste. However, over time, many stalls have innovated and added pork sausage filling to cater to the diverse tastes of customers. Nowadays, banh khoai at Ngo Market can be served with herring, pork sausage, or fried tofu, offering more choices for diners.
Ms. Xuan added: "Before, the cakes only had seafood filling, and people could buy it at the market and it was nutritious enough. But now people like to eat them with pork sausage and other toppings, so we have to change things up to better suit customers' tastes."
To make delicious banh khoai (a type of Vietnamese pancake), the most important thing is choosing the right rice. The rice must be good quality and fresh, resulting in a smooth batter; when cooked, the pancake will be white, chewy, and have a natural aroma.
After washing the rice thoroughly, it is soaked and then ground into a watery paste. When making the pancakes, the batter is mixed with water to make a thin consistency, and a little onion and cilantro are added to create a distinctive aroma.
The stalls at Ngo Market still maintain the traditional method of making rice pancakes using small clay pots over a wood-fired stove. To ensure delicious pancakes, when the bottom of the pot is hot, the cook brushes a layer of oil onto it, quickly pours in the batter, covers it, and waits about a minute for the pancake to cook. The hot pancakes are served immediately upon customer order, preserving their delicious flavor.
"Making pancakes requires skill; you have to pour the batter evenly so the pancakes are round and thin. Many beginners end up making them too thick or breaking them, and it takes time to get the hang of it," Mrs. Xuan said with a smile.
What makes the banh khoai (fried rice pancake) from Ngo Market unique is its dipping sauce and accompanying dishes. The dipping sauce is a mixture of high-quality fish sauce with lime, garlic, and chili, creating a harmonious balance of sour, spicy, salty, and sweet flavors. A plate of pickled greens, seasoned with sesame seeds or peanuts, is also an indispensable part of eating banh khoai.
Ms. Xuan emphasized: "A banh khoai (a type of Vietnamese pancake) loses half its flavor without a delicious dipping sauce. My family has our own recipe; the fish sauce must be mixed to achieve the perfect balance of sour, spicy, salty, and sweet flavors, so that customers will remember it forever after just one bite."
For those who have left their hometown, banh khoai (a type of savory pancake) is a part of their childhood memories, a poignant longing when thinking about their homeland. Even as life becomes more modern, the hot banh khoai retains its original flavor and remains a source of pride for the people of Son Hai. If you have the chance to visit this place, take some time to stop by Ngo Market to enjoy this special banh khoai – a dish imbued with the warmth of the countryside and the breath of the sea.
