Ngo market pancake - a delicious dish from Nghe An coastal region
In the coastal area of Quynh Luu district, there is a simple dish that makes many people fall in love - Ngo market pancakes. Behind these delicious cakes are interesting stories.
No one knows since when, Banh Khoai has become a specialty, an indispensable dish of the people in the coastal communes of Quynh Luu district. Especially, at Ngo market - a famous coastal market, Banh Khoai is not only a familiar breakfast dish but also a unique culinary culture.
Coming here, one cannot help but stop by the row of five small banh khoai shops located close together, with smoke billowing every early morning. From about 8 to 9 am is when the market is busiest, the shops are crowded with customers, buyers line up to enjoy the hot cakes just out of the oven.
Ms. Thai Thi Xuan, a long-time baker at Ngo market, shared: "Every day I wake up at 3am to soak rice and prepare flour. At around 5am, I light the stove and make cakes in time to sell to customers. This job is hard but fun because I get to serve people and preserve traditional dishes."
Previously, Ngo market banh khoai often had grilled fish as the filling - a typical filling because this market is near the sea, serving mainly people in coastal communes. The chewy, fragrant rice cake combined with the rich flavor of grilled sea fish created a unique flavor. However, over time, many restaurants have become creative and added ham to serve the diverse tastes of diners. Currently, Ngo market banh khoai can be served with herring, ham or fried tofu, creating more choices for diners.
Ms. Xuan added: "In the past, the cake only had sea fish filling, people bought it at the market and it was nutritious enough. But now people like to eat it with ham and sausage, so I have to change it to suit customers' taste better."
To have delicious banh khoai, the most important thing is to choose the rice. The rice must be delicious and new, creating a smooth dough; when spread out, the cake will be white, chewy, and have a natural aroma.
After being washed, the rice is soaked and ground into a liquid powder. When making the cake, the maker mixes the powder with water to thin it out, adding a little onion and coriander to create a distinctive aroma.
Shops at Ngo market still maintain the traditional method of making pancakes using small clay pots on a wood stove. To make delicious pancakes, when the bottom of the pot is hot, the baker spreads a layer of fat, then quickly pours the batter on top, covers the pot and waits about a minute for the pancakes to be cooked. The hot pancakes are served immediately after customers order, helping to preserve the delicious flavor.
"You have to be skillful in making the cake, pouring the batter evenly so that the cake is round and thin. Many people who are new to making the cake make it too thick or break it. It takes a while to get used to it," Ms. Xuan said with a smile.
The special thing that makes Banh Khoa Ngo different is the dipping sauce and side dishes. The dipping sauce is a mixture of good fish sauce with lemon, garlic, and chili, creating a harmonious sour, spicy, salty, and sweet taste. A plate of richly salted green jujube leaves, with a little sesame or peanuts, is also an indispensable part when eating Banh Khoa.
Ms. Xuan emphasized: "Without a delicious dipping sauce, banh khoai loses half of its flavor. My family has its own recipe, the fish sauce must be mixed to have the right balance of sour, spicy, salty and sweet, so that customers will remember it forever after just one bite."
For those who live far from home, Banh Khoai is a part of their childhood memories, a deep nostalgia when talking about their hometown. Although life is increasingly modern, the hot Banh Khoai still retains its original flavor, and is still the pride of the Son Hai people. If you have the opportunity to visit this place, take the time to stop at Ngo market to enjoy the special Banh Khoai - a dish full of hometown love and the breath of the ocean.
