The imprint of Nghe An in the capital city.
(Baonghean) - Perhaps few places in Hanoi have such a strong presence of the spirit of Nghe An people. From the literary world to government offices, people from Nghe An, and more specifically from Nghe An province, have contributed their efforts with distinct imprints.
Poet Hoang Cat, who has lived in Hanoi for over 50 years, once jokingly remarked: "In the old days, the Army Literature and Arts Magazine was called the Nghe An Army Literature Magazine, because so many people from Nghe An worked there, almost exclusively." While there aren't as many people from Nghe An working at this military literary magazine as there used to be, writers from Nghe An still sign their names on many of the works.
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| The UNESCO Folk Song Club performs at West Lake (Hanoi). Photo: Le Thanh Phong |
Hanoi is entering autumn this season, a gentle autumn that fills the air with the delicate scent of young rice and the intoxicating fragrance of milk flower blossoms. Hanoi in autumn is like the figure of a young woman, gracefully walking in her flowing ao dai dress, her delicate pink heels lifting as she strolls through the bustling streets.
Hanoi's autumn truly deserves to be called the most beautiful season, beautiful not only because of its scenery but also because of the successive autumns that follow one another. That autumn, the general, accustomed to the dust and smoke of war, returned, having lived through countless historical autumns of Hanoi. In a small house, far from the hustle and bustle of the city, in a deep alley, lived Lieutenant General Nguyen Quoc Thuoc, a native of Nghi Loc. After dedicating his youth to the independence and unification of the nation, the general returned as a multi-term Member of Parliament. His straightforward, genuine Nghe An character, and the spirit of a military leader who understood the value of today, made him one of the most talked-about names in the parliamentary arena at that time. Back then, the proverb was popular: "First Thuoc - Second Tran - Third Lan - Fourth Quoc" (referring to the delegates: Nguyen Quoc Thuoc, Nguyen Ngoc Tran, Nguyen Lan Dung, and Duong Trung Quoc).
Though far removed from the political arena, even while sipping on a cup of green tea from his hometown in Nghe An, his heart remained unmoved by current events. He was always ready to share his thoughts with the press and his friends and comrades on every pressing national issue.
At another level, there are countless ordinary working-class people. They come here to study, or they are mothers and fathers accompanying their children who are studying. I met Ms. Phuong (from Yen Thanh), a simple, unpretentious woman from the countryside, familiar only with farming, who accepted leaving her village to join the scrap metal scavengers here, simply to provide for her daughter who is studying here. She lives with other people from her hometown, each with their own reasons for leaving, but in that cramped and deprived space, the camaraderie of fellow countrymen acts as an undercurrent connecting them, sharing difficulties and caring for each other's lives.
Right in the heart of Hanoi, you won't have much trouble finding a restaurant serving Nghe An cuisine. There are countless Nghe An-style eel restaurants, and surprisingly, they're all bustling with customers. Mrs. Lien's restaurant on Doi Can Street (Ba Dinh District) has been around for over 10 years. Originally from Do Luong, her restaurant has provided employment for many of her descendants from her hometown. It's not just about the delicious and visually appealing food; more importantly, Nghe An cuisine acts as a culinary ambassador connecting those far from home with this harsh, arid land. At these Nghe An-style restaurants, you can also easily hear the familiar sounds of home. No need to strain your voice trying to sound like you're speaking standard Vietnamese or trying to imitate a "Hanoi accent." As a friend of mine said, "Just speak in your Nghe An accent here. No need to worry about anyone being surprised or confused."
Hanoi also has another landmark associated with people from Nghe An province: the "Ho Nine Clans' Ancestral Temple." Elderly villagers in Ho Khau, where the temple is located, recount that two brothers from the Ho family in Nghe An left their hometown to work elsewhere, and one of them settled in Ho Khau village. Mr. Vu Ho Luan, Head of the Management Board of the Ho Khau Village Temple and Pagoda, Buoi Ward, who is also from the Ho family, added that according to tradition, King Quang Trung - Nguyen Hue (also known as Ho Thom) brought many members of the Ho family with him when he led his army north to fight the Qing army, and they settled scattered throughout Thang Long (Hanoi).
Not far from Ho Khau village lies West Lake, a vast expanse of water that holds many layers of mystery. Here, the poet Ho Xuan Huong established Co Nguyet Duong as a place for literary discussions. Beneath the layers of water, many still believe that the tomb of the poet from Quynh lies there. One of the supporting pieces of information is the poem "Long Bien Truc Chi Tu" by Tung Thien Vuong (Mien Tham), written when the poet accompanied his elder brother, King Thieu Tri (1840-1847), to the North to receive Chinese envoys. Mien Tham sent a maid to West Lake to pick lotus flowers for the altar, and instructed her: “The lake is full of vibrant lotus flowers / Send someone down to pick them for the altar / Do not climb onto Xuan Huong's tomb / The golden stream still resents the broken threads of love / The lotus withers, the pollen decays, the tomb is desolate / Xuan Huong has passed away beside the green grass / Her intoxicated soul remains silent / How many times has the spring wind blown, who knows her feelings?” (Translated by Professor Hoang Xuan Han).
Hanoi is constantly expanding, the land of the ancient capital has changed many times, but amidst the hustle and bustle of the city, the movement of people from all over the country, the people of Nghe An, the imprint of Nghe An, still remain in every fiber of the land...
Ho Viet Thinh
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