Hue's charm in the heart of Vinh City
(Baonghean) - For those people from Hue who have been making a living in Vinh, I wonder if they consider themselves a part of this city yet. As for me, I feel like they have belonged to Vinh for a long time.
Every man, at least once a month, goes to the barbershop. Men and boys living in urban areas tend to get haircuts and trims even more often. I'm no exception. And for over 10 years now, I've only gone to one place to "beautify" myself: the barbershop of a guy from Hue who's been practicing his trade in Vinh for almost 20 years.
I don't know much about the people of Hue and their character, especially the men of the ancient capital. I only know generally that they are simple, cautious in their words, and meticulous in their actions. They are extremely hardworking and enjoy doing work that is artistic and aesthetic.
That's why many people in Central Vietnam in general, and Vinh in particular, tend to choose craftsmen from Hue when building houses. Why? Because for them, meticulous attention to every brick and ensuring every mortar joint is perfectly aligned are equally important when building a house. Many people who have worked with builders from the ancient capital of Hue share the same observation: Hue craftsmen rarely waste mortar, sand, or gravel. Every wall, brick, and molding in the house seems to bear an artistic imprint.
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| Mr. Tran Dinh Lai cuts a customer's hair. |
When I was a student in Hanoi, to earn extra money to cover my living expenses, I used to travel with a group of construction workers from Hue to the five city gates. As a young boy carrying bricks and mortar among experienced workers, I had a very enjoyable time with them. They were all from Hue, and the contractor, in particular, was completely illiterate. Whenever he went to take on a project, he had to rely on a younger member of the group to read the contract, review the procedures, and relay the information. He could only scribble his own name. Yet, the work was always done perfectly.
The residential houses, the "reinforced" and "reinforced" structures—the contractors and the craftsmen from the land of the Perfume River and Ngu Mountain—all worked with such skill and unexpected beauty. In my mind back then, they were true heroes. And standing for the first time on the rooftop of the five-story house that I had contributed to with my small efforts, I felt incredibly happy.
It is believed that the land of Phu Xuan was historically chosen to become the imperial capital, a gathering place for kings and princes. Therefore, all social relationships, economic activities, and professions followed the selective laws of the environment and natural conditions. Because of this, the people of Hue developed a character that values talent, aesthetics, and art. And even today, craftsmen from the ancient capital still retain that "essence" in the professions and work they pursue.
No one has compiled statistics on how many people of Hue origin are currently working and making a living in Vinh City. Perhaps, if categorized by occupation, people from Hue are mainly concentrated in three groups: the beauty industry (hairdressing, fashion design), the culinary arts, and the construction and repair (motorcycles). It seems I have some acquaintance or connection with all three groups.
I regularly get a haircut once a month at Lai Hue barbershop on Dinh Cong Trang Street. The owner is a middle-aged man named Tran Dinh Lai. He came to Vinh to start his barbershop nearly 20 years ago. From a small shop, Mr. Lai has now expanded his business to include 3 head barbers, not to mention 5 girls who help with shampooing, shaving, and ear cleaning. I'm sure any man who has had his hair cut by a Hue barber will agree that Hue barbers are meticulous, careful, and always satisfy their customers. Lai Hue's barbershop is no exception. That's why it has had several hundred regular customers for decades.
From this "beautifying" business for men, Lai brought his younger brother, wife, and children from Hue to Vinh to settle down permanently. Lai's younger brother, Ky, also opened his own barbershop on Nguyen Thai Hoc Street. In Vinh, one can find dozens of barbershops owned by people from Hue on many streets, with Dinh Cong Trang and Ngu Hai streets alone having five or seven shops.
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| Ms. Ton Nu Thanh Loan and her family are famous for their Hue-style noodle soup in Vinh City. |
But Hue people aren't just famous for their men's haircutting. It's the people of Hue, and no one else, who have contributed to establishing the "reputation" of Central Vietnamese cuisine with the renowned Hue noodle soup, popular throughout Vietnam. For the people of Vinh, this simple yet flavorful dish is no stranger. I've enjoyed Hue noodle soup many times at various eateries in Vinh city. In the past, I often frequented the noodle shop on Ngu Hai Street, and I've also eaten Hue noodle soup many times on Nguyen Tan Tai Street, Phung Phuc Kieu Street, and even in the small alleys on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nguyen Phong Sac streets… I've visited them all. The owners are simple and honest, the food is flavorful, and the taste is distinctive – that's always my opinion.
But among all the places where I've enjoyed Hue's famous beef and pork noodle soup, I was most satisfied with Thanh Loan's noodle shop located in an alley off Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street. The owner, Ton Nu Thanh Loan, has a kind and gentle face with fair, rosy skin. Although it's also beef and pork noodle soup, the dish here is slightly different. The noodles are soft, the broth is warm with lemongrass and has a light, refreshing taste. Besides pickled garlic, pickled chili peppers, and pickled bamboo shoots, there's always a small jar of chili paste on the table for customers to enjoy.
The owner of the noodle shop and her siblings have been in Vinh for over 30 years. In her family's "collection," Loan has two brothers who make a living by running noodle shops, and one who repairs motorcycles. Notably, Loan is the daughter of Mrs. Hai Hue, famous in Vinh for her noodle dishes. Currently, Loan and her siblings all have stable places to live.
A few dozen meters from Ms. Loan's eatery on Nguyen Thi Minh Khai Street is her younger brother's motorcycle repair shop. It's called Binh Hue. Perhaps no one in the Hung Binh, Le Mao, or Le Loi areas is unfamiliar with this motorcycle repair shop owned by Ton That Binh. First and foremost, people come here because of the owner's skill, and secondly because of Binh's careful, generous, and approachable nature.
In his early years in Vinh, Binh had a loving home, but he later experienced a shock related to his marriage and family life. He was almost penniless, just like when he first came to the city to make a living. Binh rebuilt his life and succeeded; now he has bought land, built a house, and can confidently smile at people again. Binh once told me that life is still full of uncertainties and worries, but what he has achieved success in this place is the affection and trust that people have given him. And Vinh chose him, giving him the opportunity to be a son of Vinh.
I've always believed that when you love and cherish a place, you want to be a part of it. For those from Hue who have been making a living in Vinh, I wonder if they've considered themselves a part of this city yet. As for me, I feel like they've belonged to Vinh for a long time.
Quoc Son
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