In the memories of Vinh sticky rice
It's a longing that arises from a small corner of the city more than 1,500 km from Vinh, in the hazy mornings or gray twilight, from a person who has been away from home for many years without the chance to return. Remembering sticky rice is just a detail of that longing for home, but it makes one feel withered, swirling in their imagination about a dish that, though not fancy, has accompanied all the sunshine and rain, heat and cold, joy and sorrow of Vinh and its people.
Content:Phuong Chi/Technique:Hong ToaiDecember 17, 2025
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To beNostalgia wells up from a small corner of the city more than 1,500 km from Vinh, in the hazy mornings or gloomy evenings, for a person who has been away from home for many years without the chance to return. Remembering sticky rice is just a detail of that longing for home, but it makes one feel withered, swirling in their imagination about a dish that is not at all fancy, yet has accompanied all the sunshine and rain, heat and cold, joy and sorrow of Vinh and its people.
Sticky rice is perhaps one of the most popular dishes in Vietnamese cuisine. It's found everywhere. Somewhere online, people have meticulously compiled dozens of specialty sticky rice dishes from across the country. There's the captivating five-colored sticky rice of the Northwest; the sticky rice with shredded chicken and steamed sticky rice – the national breakfast of Hanoi; the bird sticky rice of Muong Thanh, Dien Bien; the braised pork sticky rice of Hue; the anchovy sticky rice of Nha Trang; the stewed corn sticky rice of Saigon… From the original sticky rice made with glutinous rice, chefs have created countless variations, their names alone suggesting a myriad of shapes and sizes: fried sticky rice, sticky rice coated in oil, savory sticky rice, sweet sticky rice… Sticky rice is familiar, beloved, readily available on every street corner; you can find a sticky rice vendor right outside your door. It might seem overwhelming just by looking at it, yet amidst the abundance of sticky rice from other places, I still fondly remember the sticky rice of Vinh.
Remembering Vinh sticky rice, first and foremost, is because it's the sticky rice of my hometown – a treat brimming with familiar flavors for someone who's eaten it since childhood. Secondly, it's because of the unique characteristics of Vinh sticky rice that are rarely found elsewhere. In many other places, sticky rice is mostly only available for breakfast; but in Vinh's neighborhoods, sticky rice stalls are open regularly from morning to night, until late at night. People in Vinh choose to eat sticky rice for breakfast to feel full and energized for the whole morning's work without feeling nauseous; but they also don't mind eating sticky rice at night, undeterred by the worry of being too full and having trouble digesting it. They can eat a hearty plate of sticky rice and still comfortably go to bed for a deep sleep.
Vinh sticky rice differs from most other sticky rice dishes, from the glutinous rice grains, mung beans, and peanuts to the accompanying toppings. While Northern sticky rice is made from glutinous rice varieties like "nếp cái hoa vàng" and "nếp ả," and Southern sticky rice uses "nếp hương," most Vinh sticky rice is made from Laotian glutinous rice. Laotian glutinous rice is long, plump, and has a distinctive milky white color. It's soaked overnight for 6-8 hours, then steamed in a bamboo steamer lined with banana leaves. This method retains heat well while allowing steam to escape quickly, preserving the plump, intact shape of the rice grains. At first glance, it seems dry and hard, but upon eating, it's surprisingly soft and chewy. The mung beans and peanuts in Vinh sticky rice are also typically sourced from the fields of Nghe An province, giving it a rustic, simple, and pure "Nghe An" flavor. Each bite is delicious and evokes the fragrant aroma of home – that's the essence!
True lovers of Vinh sticky rice are also obsessed with its accompaniments, so much so that they self-proclaim them the pinnacle of street food! That pinnacle is the perfect combination of golden egg rolls, thick slices of pork sausage, and long, dreamy meatballs floating in a pan of bubbling, fragrant oil.
Egg rolls are a unique side dish on the Vietnamese sticky rice "map." The main ingredients are duck or chicken eggs mixed with a little water, finely ground lean and fatty pork, topped with scallions, black pepper, and MSG. The mixture is stirred well and then skillfully poured into a pan of boiling oil, rolled into long egg rolls about 25-30 cm long and 4-5 cm thick. The egg rolls are pre-cooked at home, then transferred by the sticky rice vendor to another pan of simmering oil to maintain temperature and prevent dust and bacteria (?). Customers then use a small, sharp knife to cut a horizontal line to determine the size of their order.
Besides egg rolls, pork sausage, and pork patties, which are the three traditional accompaniments associated with Vinh sticky rice, over time, many other side dishes have appeared such as pork rolls, braised pork, braised eggs, etc.; however, the essence of Vinh sticky rice still lies in the three aforementioned accompaniments, which can be found at almost any stall, and they are essential to the authentic taste of Vinh sticky rice, distinguishing it from sticky rice from any other region. Dip a fork into the fragrant, sticky rice, take a bite of egg roll or pork sausage, gently dip it in a little sesame and peanut oil, and lightly pick up a slice of pickled cucumber with chopsticks – what a satisfying culinary experience! Vinh sticky rice is not mixed with a hodgepodge of a mixture of sticky rice and accompaniments; instead, the rice and each side dish are kept separate, neatly arranged, with each flavor distinct.
Anyone who has ever tasted sticky rice from Northern or Southern Vietnam, with its sharp, sweet or rich, salty flavors, will find that trying Vinh-style sticky rice once will reveal a perfectly balanced, satisfying taste; even a slight deficiency or excess will significantly diminish the flavor.
Sticky rice in Vinh is delicious for breakfast and also great for a late-night snack. It's affordable for both rich and poor. Students can buy sticky rice for 5,000-10,000 VND, and adults can order a more substantial portion for 25,000-50,000 VND. Sticky rice is considered one of the cheapest, most filling, clean, and nutritious foods; it's convenient to eat on the spot or take away. Many people eat sticky rice for breakfast almost year-round without getting tired of it! And there are those who get hungry at night and head straight to a sticky rice stall.
People in Vinh eat sticky rice all year round, regardless of the weather. Few places sell sticky rice as late as Vinh, sometimes until 1-2 am, especially around the Post Office, Train Station, and wholesale market areas… catering to laborers, revelers, and those returning home… For many who are far from home, the first thing they do upon arriving at the train or bus station is find a sticky rice stall and devour a hearty plate to satisfy their cravings and nostalgia.
For generations, people in Vinh have debated the origin of Vinh sticky rice. Some say the sticky rice from Cong Thanh (City Gate) is the most authentic, others favor the sticky rice from the Post Office, and still others insist it should be the sticky rice from the Train Station or the Devil's Triangle... Sticky rice vendors are often associated with the hard work of the women and mothers on the sidewalks, so it's easy to understand why, when locating a sticky rice stall, people don't bother with specific addresses, they just call out to Mrs. Lan, Mrs. Ha, Mrs. Hien, Mrs. Yen...
It's easy to see that in Vinh's wards, almost every street has at least one sticky rice stall. Sticky rice has been a companion to many generations of Vinh residents, from childhood to adulthood and old age. Sticky rice is no longer simply a food to stave off hunger, but has become a treat deeply and intimately connected to the spiritual life of Vinh people.
Beside the sticky rice stall, there are whispered tales of joy and sorrow, reunions and partings, promises and rejections… Far from Vinh, missing Vinh, besides remembering the streets and alleys, the familiar faces, there is also a poignant longing for a sticky rice stall, a plate of sticky rice, a single grain of rice. Whether savoring or devouring Vinh's sticky rice is savoring or devouring the joys and sorrows, the happiness and hardships of a long journey, the lingering feelings of nostalgia. Those far from Vinh, in their longing for Vinh's sticky rice, are lost in thought, realizing that after more than half a lifetime… the sticky rice, it seems they still haven't fully savored the heavenly gem of that place!
