From Nghe An to Milan: Phan Dang Hoang and his dream of Vietnamese fashion.
In late September, designer Phan Dang Hoang's "Tam Cam" collection officially debuted at Milan Fashion Week – one of the world's largest fashion capitals. This is not the first time the designer from Nghe An has made his mark in Milan with designs full of inspiration from Vietnamese folklore, continuing his journey of bringing Vietnamese stories, images, and cultural values closer to the international public through the language of contemporary fashion.
Perform: Phuong ChiSeptember 28, 2026
In late September, designer Phan Dang Hoang's "Tam Cam" collection officially debuted at Milan Fashion Week – one of the world's largest fashion capitals. This is not the first time the designer from Nghe An has made his mark in Milan with designs full of inspiration from Vietnamese folklore, continuing his journey of bringing Vietnamese stories, images, and cultural values closer to the international public through the language of contemporary fashion.
PV: In 2018, when he received a scholarship to study fashion design in Milan, he was only 18 years old. Looking back at the boy from Nghe An... Ten years ago, what aspects of his hometown did he think had stayed with him until today and become an integral part of who he is and what he does in his profession?
Phan Đăng Hoàng:Hoang believes that being born in his hometown of Nghe An - a land rich in historical and cultural traditions, the birthplace of President Ho Chi Minh and many other outstanding figures and talents of the country - is a source of pride not only for him but for all the people of Nghe An.
However, this is also a region with quite harsh natural conditions, and many people still face difficult living circumstances. This environment has given Hoang many insights into people: their efforts, willpower, perseverance, and resilience in overcoming all storms, not only of the weather but also in their daily lives. Hoang believes these are qualities he has possessed since birth and that have become an important part of who he is in his profession.
PV: Milan is one of the most demanding fashion centers in the world. In your early years there, what challenges did you face in terms of language, culture, learning environment, and fashion mindset? Were there any moments when you thought you weren't strong enough to continue?
PhanDang HoangWhen Hoàng arrived in Milan, he had just turned 18, leaving his parents' embrace for the first time to venture into Europe, a land of profound cultural differences. The difficulties were countless: unfamiliarity with the environment and language, and a vast gap in aesthetic sensibilities compared to the West...
Europe, with its early developed civilization, is the cradle of various art movements and the birthplace of many influential figures in fashion and painting worldwide. Arriving in a place with such a rich history, culture, and aesthetics as a small individual, Hoang felt immense pressure to learn and prove himself. Looking back on that journey, Hoang still gets goosebumps, but is also proud of the incredible luck he received from his dedicated teachers.
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With a learning mindset, Hoang always believed that difficulties were just challenges to help him improve. Instead of just creating one graduation collection like his classmates, Hoang decided to create two collections to have more time to research, exchange ideas with teachers, and experience himself from different perspectives.
In the fashion industry, which is characterized by fierce competition and immense pressure, there were moments when Hoang felt discouraged, weak, and lonely. However, after overcoming those feelings and embracing the fruits of his labor along with the love and support from everyone, Hoang felt incredibly happy. Hoang believes that his journey is meaningful and inspires the spread of positive values. That is his greatest goal and motivation, helping him overcome all challenges while living abroad.
PV: After nearly a decade working abroad, what are your thoughts on incorporating Vietnamese culture into international fashion? How can a Vietnamese story not just be a "cultural illustration," but truly become a fashion language capable of engaging in dialogue with the world?
Phan Đăng Hoàng:Incorporating Vietnamese culture into fashion is a direction that many artists have successfully pursued, especially in an era when the country is striving for progress. Hoang always keeps in mind the saying: "As long as culture exists, the nation exists." The flourishing development of culture is the progress of the country, creating a distinct identity when we communicate and interact with international friends.
When incorporating Vietnamese ideas and imagery into fashion, Hoang does so with the feelings and spirit of a Vietnamese person, combined with international knowledge and experience to bring a contemporary feel to his designs. Hoang chooses to retain the core, most traditional elements, from clothing and inspiration to ideas connecting the past with the present, then adapts and breaks the mold within certain boundaries to make the products modern and closer to global fashion trends.
Of course, for a young person, approaching a culture and history spanning hundreds or thousands of years presents many challenges due to limitations in knowledge and experience. However, with dedication, investment, and research from available materials, Hoang always strives to bring culture closer to the public. The most important thing in Hoang's designs is to express love and pride for his nation, so that the public recognizes him as a designer from Vietnam with a very contemporary mindset.
PV: Collection"Tam Cam”This time, Phan Đăng Hoàng seems to have shown a more mature side: Instead of retelling the entire fairy tale, he chose to follow Tấm's transformation journey to speak about the vitality, inner strength, and rebirth of women. Perhaps, after years of navigating the complexities of Vietnamese and international fashion, he is also seeking his own transformative journey within the profession?
PhanDang Hoang:Each year, Hoang chooses a different theme for Milan Fashion Week. Last year it was painting, this year it's literature. At the beginning of the year, Hoang launched his "To Thi" ao dai collection (inspired by a folk poem)."Dong Dang has Ky Lua street/There is To Thi, and Tam Thanh pagoda"); in the middle of the year, he chose "The Sound of Chickens at Noon" (a poem by Xuan Quynh); and at the end of the year, Hoang chose "Tam Cam" - a theme he had cherished since high school when he was a student specializing in Literature.
Tam Cam is a classic Vietnamese fairy tale that every Vietnamese person knows. To retell this story in a unique way at Milan Fashion Week, instead of focusing on the fairy tale elements, Hoang focused on Tam's transformations and changes as she donned new appearances.
The message of the collection is:"It's not disappear, it's a transformation"(Not lost, but transformed), transformed to be oneself. This is also Hoang's journey of discovering new things, finding his core values to see himself from many angles and getting closer to international fashion. In the context of world fashion houses moving towards excitement, novelty, and expanding themes, "Tam Cam" is the perfect choice, both deeply rooted in national identity and exploring playful and captivating perspectives.
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PV: From a young man from Nghe An who received a scholarship to study in Italy in 2018 to a designer with his own brand in Milan, honored by Forbes and appearing at Milan Fashion Week, he has come a long way. If you look closely...a decadeThis is the first chapter; what do you want the next chapter of Phan Đăng Hoàng's work to be about??
Phan Đăng Hoàng:After nearly a decade in the profession, Hoang has experienced many emotions: from a young boy drawing portraits to the first Vietnamese designer to appear at Milan Fashion Week, possessing 11 trophies and recognition from both domestic and international press. It's a journey of Hoang's relentless efforts to bring his image closer to international friends, proving the tireless efforts of a boy from Nghe An reaching the world stage. Dreams that once seemed impossible have now come true, because Hoang believes that all dreams can be achieved if we start and strive our hardest.
Looking back on his journey, Hoang has always been diligent, striving, and full of ambition in both art and life. His greatest wish remains to develop the Phan Dang Hoang brand to its fullest potential; hoping the brand will reach the stature he envisioned from the very beginning. To achieve that dream, Hoang understands he needs more time to prove himself, to work hard, and to continuously strive. Hoang hopes that even in the next 10 or 20 years, Phan Dang Hoang will continue to be a name that leaves a beautiful mark in the hearts of the public and his audience.
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PV: Nearly 10Years ago, he left Nghe An at a very young age, carrying with him a dream that seemed far too big for his starting point. Looking back on that journey, if he could give a message, what would he say?therewith the hearts of the young people of Nghe AnfullThey have dreams but are hesitant because of limitations in their circumstances, environment, or distance from the world. What message would you like to convey to them?
Phan Đăng Hoàng:Everyone has a different starting point, so it's difficult to give overly specific advice, because I believe each of you has your own way of shining. However, always be persistent, strive, and relentlessly pursue your passion. Every passion has two sides; besides pursuing it, you need to know what "material" you already have and what you need to add. Don't pursue blindly and end up getting lost on your path. Trust yourself, and at the same time, understand what you truly need and want.
The achievements Hoàng has today certainly cannot be attributed solely to himself. Behind it all is the effort of his entire family, the unwavering support of his parents – who have always loved and wholeheartedly supported him on this challenging artistic journey. Hoàng is also incredibly grateful to his clients and those who have always loved and supported him throughout his career development.
Hoang believes that when we win over a large audience and receive the most love, that's also when we must shoulder a great responsibility: responsibility to ourselves, to our own choices, and more broadly, responsibility to the community and society. Each of us is a representative of Vietnamese culture. Let's strive to do our best so that in the future, many more Vietnamese designers will reach global heights and bring glory to the country's fashion industry.
PV: Thank you, designer Phan Đăng Hoàng, for the candid conversation!
