Lesson 2: This is Truong Sa…
Leaving Cam Ranh Bay on a clear blue afternoon, the HQ 996, like a young, valiant man, cut through the ocean waves, taking us to visit the soldiers on duty in the remote islands just in time for the Lunar New Year. As the shore faded from view, watching the fishing boats of the fishermen heading out to sea, I suddenly imagined the image of the ancient boats that carried people like Mr. Do Ba Cong Dao (from Thanh Chuong, Nghe An) who drew the map of Vietnam's sovereignty over the Truong Sa and Hoang Sa archipelagos in the 17th century, or the fleets of the heroic Hoang Sa naval squadrons of yesteryear…
The Truong Sa archipelago is located in a sea region with strong waves, high winds, and high salinity. The island cluster forms an arc, resembling a fortress wall in the East Sea of our homeland. Legend says that dragons helped the people fight invaders here by spitting pearls and gems, transforming them into islands to block enemy ships. It is also said that the mother dragon and her offspring turned into rocks, partially mitigating the raging storms of the ocean before they reached the mainland… During this season, the Truong Sa sea region often experiences sudden thunderstorms. The rain here isn't a gentle murmur or torrential downpour, but rather something strange, like a fine mist. A hazy layer of steam rises from the sea, creating a undulating white carpet. And after the rain, the sea becomes clear and blue again. Approaching the islands, we encounter many fishing boats bearing the insignia of Quang Nam and Quang Ngai provinces. The boats gleam with the light of fires as fishermen cook their meals, creating a warm and intimate atmosphere.
Boats deliver Tet gifts to the submerged island of Da Nam. Photo: Minh Thong.
After two days at sea, traveling over 300 nautical miles, we set foot on our first island, the submerged reef of Da Nam – located at Latitude 11°30'00" and Longitude 114°21'00". The island lies in the middle of an oval-shaped coral reef with an area of about 2 square kilometers. From afar, Da Nam Island looks like a small fortress with a three-story building. Infrastructure, communication, and electricity are fully equipped to serve the lives of the officers and soldiers serving on the island. To transport people and Tet gifts to Da Nam Island, we had to lower boats from the HQ996 ship, tow them in, and this had to be done at midday when the sea was calmest… According to the soldiers replacing the troops this time, we overcame the towering waves between the coral reef and the deep sea. The coral, in a variety of colors – blue, red, purple, yellow – made the waters around Da Nam sparkle and shimmer.
Protecting national sovereignty. Photo: Minh Thông
The first impression upon arriving at Da Nam Island is the proud national flag fluttering atop the island, amidst the windswept East Sea. This flag, along with the landmark, affirms the sacred land, the territorial borders of the islands, and the inviolable sovereignty of Vietnam... Speaking about the national flag, Colonel Nguyen Ba Ngoc, Deputy Commander of the 4th Naval Region, shared: "In the past, to uphold the sovereignty of the Fatherland's territorial waters, soldiers in Truong Sa wrapped the flag around their chests, using their bodies as flagpoles before being hit by bullets. Then, the flag, soaked with the blood of Vietnamese soldiers, enveloped their fallen bodies on the coral reefs in the ocean. There were soldiers on the offshore platforms, before their platforms collapsed, knowing they could not overcome the raging storms of nature, they embraced the national flag as if embracing the very essence of their country, and peacefully sank into the deep sea."
Guarding the open sea. Photo: Minh Thông
As the boat docked at the island, officers and soldiers stood to greet them, their smiles bright, and the warm embraces of long-lost relatives. In their neat uniforms, their skin tanned by the sun, waves, and wind, the officers and soldiers on Da Nam Island were surprisingly endearing and lovable. Upon learning more, one realizes the hardships and deprivations faced by our soldiers on this submerged island. During storms and strong winds, they must always have life rafts and rescue boats ready for any unexpected events. In rough seas, their eyes are always focused on their colleagues on distant islands, praying for their safety. Just off the coral reef of Da Nam Island, the wreck of a fishing boat from the previous year still rises above the water. That terrible storm, if not for the bravery of these soldiers, would surely have resulted in the deaths of 20 fishermen.
Although the island is small, it is neat and tidy, with a very scientific division of areas: there are small vegetable gardens, a large water reservoir, and even a poultry farming area. Life on the island remains difficult, especially regarding fresh water and vegetables. Particularly during the dry season, the soldiers have to be frugal, saving and sharing every precious drop of rainwater… It is known that in recent years, not only on the above-water islands but also on most submerged islands, the movement to increase production has been very effective, so that vegetables and poultry meat are self-sufficient on the spot. Besides being on duty, the soldiers also focus on increasing production. Growing a vegetable here is very hard and difficult – soil is transported from the mainland, placed in wooden trays, and the vegetable garden must be carefully protected. Sergeant Nguyen Anh Duong, from Da Nam Island, said: Growing vegetables here is difficult because the sea wind is very strong. But after planting for a long time and gaining experience, we have succeeded. Vegetables on the island are grown seasonally; this season we have green cabbage and chrysanthemum greens. With fresh vegetables and nutritious food, the soldiers' health is excellent... On the island, they sometimes long for the sound of a rooster crowing and the atmosphere of the mainland, so the soldiers raise chickens and dogs to ease their homesickness and strengthen their determination to complete their mission successfully.
Taking care of the vegetable garden for self-sufficiency. Photo: Minh Thông
Spring is arriving in the islands. The Tet gifts brought in by the HQ996 ship include apricot blossoms, banana leaves, sticky rice, pork, and chicken… The soldiers are very happy to receive these gifts. But we know that somewhere, the soldiers holding their weapons feel a pang of sadness, a deep longing for their loved ones as the season of reunion approaches. However, these emotions are quickly hidden deep within their hearts because they understand very well their duty and responsibility to the Fatherland. Lieutenant Pham Xuan Hoa confided: "It's normal for soldiers on the islands to go two, three, or even five years without returning home to celebrate Tet with their families. We are always ready to sacrifice our private lives and moments of reunion with loved ones to stay at the forefront of the waves and winds, to maintain the sovereignty of the Fatherland's territory and maritime borders. Being far from family does make us a little homesick, but we receive enthusiastic support from our units, both materially and spiritually. This is a great source of encouragement for us to successfully complete our sacred mission."
Interacting with the officers and soldiers on Da Nam Island helped us feel closer to them. And perhaps, they also felt more deeply the profound affection from the mainland, from their loved ones and friends who are always watching over them and standing by their side. That affection will warm the hearts of the officers and soldiers, helping them to strengthen their faith and firmly hold their weapons to protect the peace of the Truong Sa sea region of our Fatherland… Leaving the submerged island of Da Nam, we could still hear the soaring voices of the soldiers who braved the waves and wind: “Day after day, night after night, we come here to protect our homeland. This sea is ours, this island is ours: Truong Sa…”
Thanh Chung
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