'Treasures' in the kitchens of the Thai people of Nghe An

Today, the Thai community has undergone certain changes in their lifestyles and eating habits, but sticky rice still plays a vital role as a staple food. Therefore, rice steamers are still quite common in Thai households.

Thai women often use the "mòừng" plant to steam sticky rice. Photo: Huu Vi

For generations, this set of tools has remained unchanged. It consists of two parts: the upper part is a cylindrical wooden tube, 20-30 cm in diameter and over 40 cm high, carved from fig trees and other types of wood found along rivers and streams. In Thai, it is called a "hay" or "khay".

Along with the "delicious" item comes a metal pot made of brass, cast iron, or an aluminum-zinc alloy. The pot has a long neck, and on top is a funnel-shaped section for a wooden tube. Water can be poured around it to prevent the heat from escaping. The Thais call this pot "mo nung".

But this particular pot is more than just that. It's not simply an ordinary utensil; despite its somewhat outdated appearance, it holds enduring significance in Thai culinary culture.

In folk tales, the rice steamer has become very familiar. The story of the fragrant-haired girl, a fairy tale character attributed by some to Le Loi's efforts in defeating the invading Ming army in the 15th century, is also said to be someone who often used a "mo nung" pot to steam rice for her father to eat.

The image of this familiar utensil also appears in famous folk poems of the Thai people of Nghe An province such as "The Story of the Myna Bird" or "Khun Chuong"... Those who often use it are young girls, widows, poor young men... This shows that this rice steamer has been an extremely familiar utensil to the Thai community since ancient times.

In the old days, the bamboo flute also reflected the social status of the homeowner. Photo: Dao Tho

Those who have lived in Thai villages for a long time will understand the importance of the "mò nừng" (a type of cooking pot), which often goes beyond its material value. When a young person gets married, no matter how poor the family is, they will try their best to buy one for their use. Every morning, the women, usually mothers, daughters-in-law, or young girls of marriageable age, wanting to prove their diligence, often get up early to cook sticky rice. The first thing they do after lighting the fire is to take the pot out and scrub it. Many don't scrub it at all. They cook and reuse it for months, until the pot is covered in soot, black and shiny as if it had been used for a hundred years. Afterward, the pot is returned to its place in the kitchen, in the darkest, most inconspicuous corner, and is considered the most precious kitchen utensil.

Throughout the feudal era, owning a "mò nừng" pot also reflected the social status of the homeowner. Only feudal lords could afford copper pots, often cast with dragon motifs and featuring two handles for easy lifting and lowering on the stove. They only used them on important occasions. Wealthier but lower-status families used cheaper copper pots cast with toad motifs. Those of lower status could only afford zinc pots; and no matter how difficult their circumstances, they would strive to acquire one. The "mò nừng" pot was cherished like a treasure.

The bamboo shoot has been an integral part of the kitchens of the Thai ethnic group for generations. Photo: Dao Tho

Despite its importance, the Thai people hardly produce the "mo nung" pot. In Thai villages in Nghe An province, there are still blacksmiths' workshops, but they only make agricultural tools, not "mo nung." Perhaps the level of metallurgy expertise of this minority community does not allow them to create such complex items. Even the Hmong, a community with sophisticated blacksmithing skills, do not make this item.

Some elderly people interviewed said that in the past, the Thai people mainly bought "mò nừng" (a type of bronze object) from the Laotians. Therefore, the price was quite high, especially since these objects were cast in bronze. Later, metallurgists from the lowlands also learned to make "mò nừng." Locals often bought them from street vendors.

Today, brass "mò nừng" pots are almost no longer produced. Only a few Thai families still possess them. Some are hundreds of years old. In the 1980s and 90s, many people from the lowlands came to inquire about buying these antiques. Many people sold them because of the high prices offered.

Although modern kitchen appliances have appeared in the kitchens of the Thai community in Nghe An province, the traditional "mò nung" rice steamer remains a enduring part of the unique culinary traditions of the Thai people.