Sardines - a 'gift' from the sea to the Lam River.

(Baonghean.vn) - In March, when the crape myrtle flowers bloom, the Lam River is also tinged with silt, signaling the season when sardines migrate upstream from the sea to the upper reaches of the Lam River.

The Lam River section flowing through Thanh Chuong district is considered the capital of sardines. Photo: Van Dien.

These days, the Giang Thuy fishing village in Thanh Giang commune (Thanh Chuong district) is in the midst of its sardine fishing season. According to Ms. Nguyen Thi Dung, head of the Giang Thuy fishing village, the sardine fishing season begins in mid-January and lasts for about three months, ending during the early summer flood season. During this time, from 1 to 2 PM, the fishermen head downstream to cast their nets, and nighttime is the busiest time for fishing. Along with the boats and nets on the river, traders are waiting on shore to collect the fish for distribution to local and city markets.

The peak season for sardine fishing is in March, when fishermen cast their nets from the afternoon of the previous day until the following morning. Photo: Van Dien.

Mr. Trang, an experienced fisherman from the fishing village, said: "No one knows exactly when sardines first appeared in the Lam River, but their numbers have increased about four years ago. Each year, the number of sardines swimming upstream varies. Some years, there are fewer sardines, but they are large and fat. Other years, there are many, but they are very thin. Experience shows that years with a large influx of sardines also tend to have major floods. Two years ago, to catch sardines, you had to go all the way down to Dong Van; this year, the fish have reached Do Cung, in the Do Luong area."

Sardines are characterized by their ability to get caught in nets and are easy to catch. Photo: Tran Dinh Ha.

During the peak season, sardines are abundant, but it's crucial to find suitable fishing spots. For the fishermen of Giang Thuy village, the ideal spot is the stretch from Ru Ha gorge to Ben Do Phuong, because this section of the river is narrow, the current is strong, and there's no sand encroachment, allowing the nets to drift freely without getting caught on banks or sandbars.

Currently, the fishing village has over 50 boats. To fish, the fishermen line up in order, with only 5-10 boats casting their nets at a time so that everyone can benefit from the bounty of nature. From one fishing season to the next, the entire stretch of the Lam River is always bustling with people fishing.

According to scientific literature, sardines are amphibious fish that live in the sea but lay their eggs in freshwater rivers during the breeding season. They have small heads, belong to the herring family, and have long, oval-shaped bodies. Their backs are slightly blue or brown, and their bellies are silver. Sardines feed on algae, fish eggs, mosquito larvae, and small shrimp. Photo: Tran Dinh Ha.

Mr. Tran Van Tai is one of the lucky ones who always catches a lot of fish. Some days he catches about 50 kg, and even on slow days he gets over 20 kg. At the beginning of the season, each kg sells for 40,000 VND, but during peak season it only costs 25,000 - 30,000 VND, yet his family's income is still much higher than in other fishing seasons of the year. "During peak season, the sardines get caught in the nets so thickly that it's impossible to remove them. Three or four people pull a single net full of sardines, sweating profusely. Besides the economic value, sardine hunting is also a hobby because sometimes we catch a whole school of large fish. At night, when we pull in the nets, the silver color of the fish glitters under the lights, which is very pleasing to the eye," Mr. Tai shared.

The good news is that sardines are appearing in increasing numbers in the Lam River, thanks to the improved awareness of fishermen who are no longer engaging in destructive fishing practices. “A few years ago, the sardines were huge, about half the size of an adult’s hand. Because of greed, many households used electric fishing devices. They would kill 10 sardines but only manage to catch 3 or 4 because sardines sink easily. The next morning, dead fish would float on the surface of stagnant water. It was heartbreaking to see. Fortunately, the government has done a good job of raising awareness, so the use of electric fishing devices on the river has decreased,” Mr. Trang shared.

At the beginning of the fishing season, each kilogram sells for 40,000 VND, while during the peak season the price drops to 25,000 - 30,000 VND, but it still provides significantly more income than other fishing seasons of the year. Photo: Tran Dinh Ha

According to Ms. Nguyen Thi Hong, a fisherwoman from Giang Thuy fishing village, during the breeding season, river sardines are fat and have flavorful meat. Sardines have the characteristic of dying as soon as they are taken out of the net, unlike other types of fish that live longer. Therefore, when buying them, you need to pay attention to whether the fish's eyes are clear and black, whether the fish have been chilled, and whether the gills are still red, which means the fish are fresh.”

"Sardines can be prepared in many ways, such as fried, grilled and dipped in fish sauce with pepper and chili or ginger sauce, or mixed with minced pork belly and stewed, or cooked with kohlrabi and green bananas served with mint. Many people like a more unusual taste, creating a variation by mixing ground sardines with pork paste, then frying and cooking it with green bananas. This dish is very warming on cold days..." - said Ms. Nguyen Thi Hong.

During the off-season, fishermen gather around a plate of freshly fried sardines, served with coriander, mint, and young mango leaves, while sipping white wine... stories of sardine fishing permeate the entire village. Photo: Van Dien

Fresh, grilled sardines are widely sold in markets, but the freshest and tastiest can still be found at the riverbanks near fishing villages. Photo: Tran Dinh Ha.

Besides Giang Thuy fishing village, along the Lam River, other fishing villages are also bustling with the sardine hunting season. Sardines only appear in large schools on the Lam River once a year, usually by mid-April, but this is a "special gift" from the sea to the poetic Lam River. This gift needs to be protected and preserved for the future.

"Yen Thanh freshwater crabs 'march' to Hanoi"

"The season for setting eel traps and catching freshwater eels."

Tran Dinh Ha - Van Dien