Green tea - a corner of rural soul
(baonghean.vn)The character of Nghe An, the dialect of Nghe An, the folk songs of Nghe An, the sunshine of Nghe An, the soy sauce of Nghe An, the pickled eggplant of Nghe An, and... the green tea of Nghe An; since time immemorial, these have contributed to creating a "Nghe An identity".
Green tea – a traditional beverage amidst modern life – remains an indispensable part of the lives of people throughout the Nghe An countryside.
Green tea is grown throughout the country, but tea from Nghe An is still considered the best. Perhaps it's because it's grown in rocky soil, with harsh weather conditions—scorching hot winds from Laos in summer and bone-chilling cold in winter—so the tea plants seem to have absorbed the unique bitterness of the land, the sky, and the sweat of the hardworking people.
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In many areas of Nghe An province, a beautiful custom still persists: every evening, people gather around a pot of green tea to chat. It seems to have become a tradition; if one family brews tea today, another will take their turn tomorrow.
However, making a bowl of rich, yellowish-green tea that is both bitter and fragrant is a rather complicated process.
First, there's the matter of choosing the tea leaves. Good tea has small, thick, dark green leaves, and a medium-sized, slightly firm stem. When picking the tea leaves, avoid those that are too old or too young. Old leaves will produce a dark, murky brew, while young leaves will quickly lose their flavor. In my hometown, people usually brew both the leaves and stems to add a slightly bitter taste to the tea, and after meals, the stems can be trimmed into small pieces to use as toothpicks. In Nghe An, the tea grown in Do Luong is considered the best because when brewed, it produces a rich, non-bitter flavor and a clear, yellow color, unlike the dull, pale tea from other places.
Rolling tea leaves requires gentle hands; if the leaves are crushed too much, the tea won't taste good, but if they're left whole, the tea will take longer to infuse. The best water for brewing tea is rainwater or clear, sweet well water. The firewood for brewing green tea should be wood or wood cut from tree trunks; using dried leaves, especially eucalyptus leaves, will ruin the aroma of the green tea.
In Nghe An province, almost every family with a daughter is taught by their grandmother or mother how to brew green tea. If brewing for many people, they usually use a large pot. After the water boils vigorously, they add the tea leaves. After 5-10 minutes, they use chopsticks to push the leaves down into the water, then lower the heat, but keep the pot on a hot charcoal stove to maintain the temperature. If there are fewer people, they use a method of simmering the tea: put the washed tea leaves into a teapot and pour hot boiling water over them until just covered. Then, they wrap the teapot in a blanket or a container of rice husks. When guests arrive, they bring it out and serve it, ensuring it's both delicious and hot.
Like the humble tea plant itself, the way people drink tea in the villages is also very special. People usually sit and sip each bowl of tea on bamboo benches or on woven mats spread on the ground. Passing around bowls of hot, fragrant tea, they exchange stories about the harvest, seeds, ancestral ceremonies, or their children's exams...
More than just quenching thirst, a bowl of green tea at this time has become a symbol of community spirit. A pot of green tea also accompanies people to the fields, helping to cool them down and reduce fatigue. In my hometown, everyone knows a very effective "tea remedy": adding a few drops of molasses to a bowl of hot tea is very effective for back pain, knee pain, and headaches.
Green tea is not only a familiar drink in rural areas, but it also remains popular in many urban households and offices, enjoying a special favor that not all carbonated drinks can match. Many people compare green tea to the elegant and delicate characteristics of tea. But I think it is precisely this rustic, unpretentious quality that creates the unforgettable soul and essence of green tea. Therefore, it's no surprise that many people, especially those middle-aged and older, consider tea a part of their daily needs. Hence the saying: "Addicted to green tea."
Along with many other unique cultural features, green tea has created a very special and beloved corner of the homeland in the hearts of every person in Nghe An province. A bowl of clear green tea with all its flavors: bitter, sweet, astringent, and fragrant, has been so familiar to us for generations. Perhaps this distinctive culinary culture is the most vivid reflection of the sentiments of the people of Nghe An, as expressed in the folk song:
"Oh, people of Nghe An province!"
The saltier it is, the crispier it gets.
Green tea from Nghe An province.
The more bitter it is, the more fragrant it becomes..."
Phan Tú -Hung Thinh - Hung Nguyen
