Buffalo fighting in Nghe An
(Baonghean)From ancient times, the folk song "No matter where you buy or sell / On the tenth day of the eighth lunar month, come home for the buffalo fighting" seemed to be reserved only for Do Son (Hai Phong), Lap Thach (Vinh Phuc), Ham Yen (Tuyen Quang), or Phu Ninh (Phu Tho), places that have been associated with festivals deeply rooted in the rice-farming civilization of the ancient Vietnamese people for generations.
But perhaps few people know that Nghe An province also has its own buffalo fighting festival, which, although newly formed, is just as exciting and captivating as those in other famous regions. This is the buffalo fighting festival in Nghi Thai commune (Nghi Loc district), which was only started two years ago.
On August 10th of the lunar calendar (September 17th of the Gregorian calendar) this year, people from Phuc-Thai-Tho and many neighboring communes of Nghi Loc district flocked to Nghi Thai commune to attend a festival considered "the best in the commune," as Mrs. Nguyen Thi Tinh (Thai Son hamlet, Nghi Thai) excitedly told us. Meanwhile, 70-year-old farmer Nguyen Van Dang mused, "The buffalo that plowed with us, now gets to compete in the arena, it's wonderful!" Despite the sweltering sun, thousands of people crowded together to watch the "buffaloes," the farmers' close companions, showcase their skills in the arena.
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The loudspeaker system and drums added to the lively atmosphere. |
According to Mr. Nguyen Van Thanh from Thai Loc hamlet (Nghi Thai commune), the "commune-level" buffalo fighting festival only started in 2009, among buffalo enthusiasts who shared a passion for buffaloes. At that time, the matches only involved two buffaloes. This year, the number has increased to five, with Thai Loc hamlet alone accounting for three. Despite the small number, there are clear rules. With a direct fighting method, if one buffalo runs away, it immediately fights the next one. The arena, originally the commune's stadium, is now muddy and flooded due to rain, but spectators don't mind; even the flat roofs and first and second floors of nearby houses are used as makeshift "stands."
Each time a new match begins, as the buffaloes enter the arena, the entire audience erupts in excitement. The applause and commentary about the buffaloes drown out even the presenter's words, making us feel like we're attending a top-level football match.
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Unlike traditional professional buffalo fighting competitions, the "buffalo fighters" in the Nghi Thai arena are basically all selected from private farms, with the exception of buffalo number 6, which was purchased from Ha Tinh province just over a month ago. The care regimen for these buffaloes isn't much different either. That is, they still plow and graze like their non-competitive buffaloes, only with less plowing and slightly fresher grass. However, the passion of the Nghi Thai buffalo owners is probably no less than that of professional buffalo fighting owners. Sitting next to us, Mr. Nguyen Van Nam (from Thai Son hamlet) recounted in detail the characteristics of the five buffaloes participating in this competition: Mr. Nguyen Van Ngoc's buffalo number 6 had a unique horn-flicking technique that poked opponents in the eyes; Mr. Nguyen Van Niem's buffalo number 13 had a neck-gripping move; Mr. Dang Van Khoa's buffalo number 1 would run as soon as it entered the ring, but then unexpectedly turn around and deliver a "counter-attack" that left its opponent no time to react...
This year, word spread quickly, and a buffalo owner from the mountainous district of Tan Ky brought his buffalo to participate. However, due to insufficient preparation, the organizers asked him to postpone the event to another time. After the buffalo fight ended, the losing buffaloes were butchered and sold for 130,000 VND/kg, allowing attendees to buy some to take home as a token of good luck.
See you again at the Nghi Thai buffalo fighting festival, a new and beautiful tradition in Nghe An province.
Tran Hai
