Rich and flavorful Kẻ Gám rice noodle rolls

(Baonghean.vn) - Anyone who has the opportunity to visit Xuan Thanh, Yen Thanh district (Nghe An province) and enjoy the specialty rice noodle dish from Ke Gam village will never forget the rich flavor of this product from the rice paddy.

Banh muot (steamed rice rolls) is one of the traditional dishes enjoyed by locals and tourists alike when visiting the rice-growing region of Yen Thanh. Photo: Thai Duong

Around 3 a.m., while everyone else was asleep, the families making rice paper in Ke Gam village began their work for the new day. Within each family, everyone had a task: some scooped rice to grind into flour, others lit the wood-fired stoves, and the women busied themselves with the various steps of making the rice paper.

Ms. Nguyen Thi Thinh from Hamlet 3, Xuan Thanh Commune shared: "Making cakes is hard work; you have to stay up late and wake up early. To attract many customers, the first factor is ensuring the quality of the cakes. Previously, the flour grinding process had to be done manually using stone mortars, which took a lot of time and effort. Now, the rice is ground by machine, resulting in finer flour and much faster processing."

Due to increasing demand, we make an average of 50-60 kg of cakes per day, selling them right at home. Besides regular customers from within and outside the commune, many people from Vinh and Hanoi come to order cakes, and some even take them to southern provinces as gifts. On holidays, the number of customers is very high; even with three people working, we still can't keep up with the demand."

Ms. Le Thi Oanh is considered a master of making banh muot (a type of Vietnamese rice noodle) in Ke Gam village. (Photo: Thai Duong)

When talking about the rice noodle rolls of Ke Gam village, it's impossible not to mention Mrs. Le Thi Oanh, who has nearly 70 years of experience in making them. She has been involved in this profession since she was 10 years old, inheriting the secret recipe from her mother, and has maintained her famous brand to this day.

Although she is now 80 years old, she remains dedicated to her craft, honing her skills and passing on her secrets to future generations. She explains that to make a delicious rice cake, one must be meticulous in every step, from selecting and grinding the rice to steaming the batter and using onions and lard for seasoning.

There are many delicious types of rice used as ingredients for making cakes, but the most commonly used is Khang Dan rice, because the flour of this type of rice has both high expansion and just the right amount of stickiness, resulting in cakes that are chewy and do not break easily.

After soaking for 2-3 hours, the rice is drained to remove the sour water, then put into a machine to grind. However, the amount of water and flour must be appropriate, and a little finely chopped fresh scallion leaves are mixed in before being put into the steamer.

According to Ms. Oanh, each kilogram of rice only needs to produce 3 kilograms of finished cakes, resulting in larger, higher-quality cakes at a reasonable price of only 12,000 VND/kg. However, the most important step is steaming the cakes in a pot of water through a thin, sealed cloth.

Besides maintaining a stable temperature from the wood-fired oven, the person making the rice pancakes must be quick and agile, spreading the batter evenly, neither too thick nor too thin, and the lid must be tightly closed and only opened once when removing the pancake (within about 2 minutes, the rice batter will cook into a pancake, which is then skillfully removed and rolled evenly for a delicious result).

If the cook is inexperienced, removing the rice paper from the wrapper too early while rolling will cause it to break, while leaving it in too long will make the wrapper soggy, unappetizing, difficult to transport, and not last long.

An indispensable ingredient in banh muot (a type of Vietnamese steamed rice cake) is dried shallots, finely chopped and roasted with pork fat, but they must be crispy and fragrant enough to be spread thinly on the outside of the cake, creating a delicious taste without being greasy.

To make a delicious cake, in addition to carefully preparing the ingredients, it requires diligence, perseverance, and skillful hands from the woman making it. Photo: Thai Duong

Currently, in Ke Gam village, there are nearly 20 households engaged in this trade, with the workforce mainly consisting of women. On average, these households consume 15-20 kg of rice per day, earning 200,000 VND after deducting all expenses, not including by-products used for livestock farming.

Nowadays, Kẻ Gám village's rice noodle rolls are not only sold in local markets, but customers from many places are increasingly coming to Kẻ Gám village to enjoy this rustic dish with its authentic rice paddy flavor.

Mr. Le Van Hai, Chairman of the People's Committee of Xuan Thanh commune, said: "Taking advantage of the purely agricultural area and the Gam forest ecological and spiritual tourism area, to create a lasting impression on tourists visiting Xuan Thanh, the commune has been promoting and encouraging people to develop the traditional rice noodle making craft, while ensuring food safety and hygiene, aiming to build a craft village that both serves tourism needs and increases income for the people."

Sun