Mysteries of the Northwest Region

(Baonghean) - Western Nghe An attracts many explorers and researchers not only because of its scenic landscapes, historical relics, and rich ecosystem, but also because of the rich and unique cultural traditions of each ethnic group; associated with these are mysterious and sacred stories.

Chau Thuan bronze cauldron

Following National Highway 48, tourists travel to the Northwest region of Nghe An province, visiting Chau Thuan commune in Quy Chau district. This is a large valley embraced by two streams, Khe Chai and Khe Ninh, and surrounded by limestone mountains. Archaeologists have proven the continuous existence of humans in the Khe Chai and Khe Ninh valleys since the Old Stone Age. Fossilized remains of hominids and rudimentary stone tools have been found in the sediments of Tham Om and Tham Chang caves; visiting Tham Om and Tham Chang is vivid evidence of the lives of our ancestors. According to some historical sources, Tham Chang was also where Le Loi gathered and trained elephant troops to fight against the Ming army.

Returning to Chau Thuan allows you to relive the legendary history of the local Thai people. The village elders still often tell their descendants the legend of the founding of Muong Chai (the former name of Chau Thuan). According to this legend, Muong Chai was founded by a Thai man named Cam Coong, who came from Thuong Xuan (Thanh Hoa) around the 13th-14th centuries. After Cam Coong and his wife passed away, Muong Chai was under the administration of his eldest daughter, Mrs. Chai, and the villagers lived in prosperity and happiness. When Mrs. Chai grew old and weak, bandits rose up in the surrounding area, and Muong Chai was repeatedly plundered. Mrs. Chai sent for Tao Noong, a hero from the Ke Nam region (present-day Chau Binh commune), to help govern the land. Upon his arrival, Tao Noong recruited able-bodied men to organize resistance against the bandits.

When the village was free from bandits, Tạo Noong, relying on his past services, became tyrannical and committed many cruel acts against the villagers. Seeing her people oppressed, Bà Chai sent trusted confidants to find another capable person to subdue Tạo Noong. That person was Tạo Nọi, whose real name was Cầm Bá Huệ, originally from Thường Xuân district (Thanh Hóa province). Bà Chai ordered a ceremony to welcome Tạo Nọi, and during that time, a ceremony of brotherhood was held between Tạo Noong and Tạo Nọi. While the ceremony and brotherhood were underway, Tạo Noong was overthrown by Tạo Nọi and the villagers. Under Tạo Nọi's leadership, the village returned to peace.

Legends often contain many fictional elements, but the people here still believe the story is true because the evidence remains: a rather large ancient bronze cauldron. Legend says that Tạo Nọi brought this cauldron with him when he returned to Mường Chai, and it was used to cook a buffalo during that historic ceremony to worship the heavens. Later, Tạo Nọi entrusted the cauldron to the head shaman for safekeeping, and it was only to be used during the annual ceremonies of the village; it was absolutely forbidden to be used for cooking food or drinking water on a daily basis.

Buffalo sacrifice ceremony at the Nine-Room Temple (Que Phong).

Currently, this bronze cauldron – the sacred artifact of Muong Chai – is being kept at the Chau Thuan Community Learning Center. The four-handled bronze cauldron weighs approximately 35-40 kg and has a mouth wide enough for two people to encircle. Mr. Cam Ba Kinh, Chairman of the Chau Thuan Commune People's Committee, recounts: Ignoring superstitious beliefs, there's a very interesting coincidence: the cauldron has been stolen several times, but after about a lunar cycle, it's always returned. Around the 1990s, the bronze cauldron was sold by thieves to a scrap metal shop in Dien Hong commune, Dien Chau district. About a month later, the shop owner traveled a long distance to return the cauldron... From then on, the story of the bronze cauldron became even more mysterious and sacred.

Mr. Cam Ba Kinh led us to Chieng village to see another piece of evidence supporting the village's legend: an ancient Barringtonia tree. Chieng village was formerly called Ten Kho, meaning "warehouse." Legend says that Mrs. Chai built a large house here and planted a Barringtonia tree in front of it. Young Thai couples from the surrounding area often visited this tree before getting married.

The sound of the wind on the summit of Pú Chũ Nhàng

Que Phong District is considered a "golden" land that captivates hearts with its rustic, genuine, and friendly atmosphere, featuring traditional stilt houses of the Thai ethnic minority; with its sweet and bitter bamboo shoots; with the majestic and pristine Sao Va waterfall; and especially with the legendary Nine-Room Temple - the origin of legends in the consciousness of the Thai ethnic minority in western Nghe An province... The Nine-Room Temple was built in the early 14th century in Pu Chu Nhang, called Ten Pom (temple on the mountain), in Khoang village, Chau Kim commune, Que Phong district. The temple has nine chambers, so the locals call it Tến Cau-hoong (meaning Nine-Chamber Temple), each chamber symbolizing a district: Mường Tôn, Mường Pắn, Mường Chừn, Mường Hin, Mường Puộc, Mường Quáng, Mường Ha Quèn, Mường Miểng, Mường Chón... The number 9 symbolizes the nine villages and ten districts united and closely bound together, battling nature, fighting foreign invaders, and protecting the national border.

Ancient bronze cauldron from Chau Thuan (Quy Chau).

Legend has it that one year, on the day of the Heavenly Festival, while preparing to offer a buffalo sacrifice, a dragon suddenly flew in and carried away the white buffalo of Muong Ton. Seeing this as an ominous sign, the village chief ordered the buffalo to be slaughtered as part of a ritual, praying to the heavens, Buddha, and ancestors to move the temple to another location. Legend says that a white-necked crow came, picked up a piece of buffalo bone from the old temple, flew away, and dropped it onto a small hill south of Muong Ton, also known as Pu Cam (Golden Mountain), or popularly called Pu Quai (Buffalo Mountain). Therefore, at the end of the 18th century, the temple was moved to Pu Cam, also known as the Buffalo Sacrifice Temple, in Pieng Chao village, Chau Kim commune. At this time, the temple had a nine-bay stilt house with a thatched roof; it worshipped Then-pha (the god of heaven), Nang Xi Da (daughter of heaven), and Tao Lo Y (the person who contributed to building the village and establishing the Muong). In 1927, the temple was renovated with a stilt house, featuring four rows of columns and nine bays made of ironwood, roofed with corrugated iron. From 1927 to 2003, over a long period marked by many historical upheavals, the temple deteriorated and fell into ruin. In 2004, it was renovated to preserve and promote the cultural identity of the Thai people in the Northwest region of Nghe An province. In 2008, the temple was recognized as a provincial-level cultural relic.

Remembering their roots, honoring their ancestors, and praying for national peace and prosperity, favorable weather, and abundant harvests, the Nine-Chamber Temple Folk Festival is annually organized by the Party Committee and people of Que Phong district. The festival includes the grand ceremony (Xớ Thẻn and Xớ Đăm rituals) with all the necessary ceremonies: procession, buffalo bathing, the "phắn quái" ritual, and activities like casting nets and releasing fish; the festival part features unique folk games. Visiting the Nine-Chamber Temple during the festival allows you to experience the beauty of the spiritual culture, artistic culture, and the very special ancient customs and traditions of the Thai people.

If you can't make it back in time for the festival, please stay a night on top of Pú Chũ Nhàng. Mr. Hà Đình Quỳ, from Piếng Chào village, Châu Kim commune (a descendant of the famous shaman family of Quế Phong district) - who is in charge of looking after the temple - recounts: On the 15th day of the lunar month, late at night, amidst the wind, you can clearly hear the sound of fire being blown, the sound of horse hooves; you can hear the whispering of "kin khẩu nơ" (invitation to eat). Many people have come here, staying a night on the Nine-Room Temple in the wind to calm their minds and remember their ancestors…

Thanh Son