The village where fish is grilled along the Lach Van River.

(Baonghean) - No one knows exactly when this grilled fish business started, only that it has been around for a very long time, especially in the last 20 years or so, since some families began grilling fish at home and selling it at district markets. Gradually, the fish from Dien Van (Dien Chau) spread throughout the province, and even to many other localities nationwide.

Dien Van, formerly part of Van Phan, may not have high mountains or wide rivers, but it boasts a very special geographical location. This land is where many rivers converge, such as the Bung River, the Vach Bac River, and the Lach Van River. Dien Van is also known for its rich history and diverse cultural traditions. For generations, many villages have thrived on the bounty of the sea, producing salt, fish sauce, and shrimp paste, among which the grilled seafood is particularly prominent.

Beyond the Van Bridge lies the beginning of Trung Hau village, situated along the Van creek leading to the sea, with dozens of fish grilling stalls lining both sides of the village's main road. Although the locals don't work in the fishing industry, fish grilling has been a long-standing traditional occupation, supporting hundreds of families who work as hired grillers or own and operate the stalls.

After being cleaned, the fish are arranged on racks to dry before grilling. Photo: Xuan Hoa

Mr. Thai Ba Luu (Trung Hau hamlet, Dien Van commune) shared: To get the amount of fish needed for a day, around 3-4 am, he and his son go to the beaches of Dien Thanh, Dien Bich (Dien Chau district) or further afield to the seaports in Cua Lo, Cua Hoi; Quynh Phuong, Quynh Tien (Hoang Mai town)... to collect fish.

Most of the fish are frozen and sourced from long-haul fishing boats, with a few caught fresh at night. However, to ensure the grilled fish is fragrant, delicious, and doesn't fall apart, all the fish must be very fresh to produce a satisfactory grilled dish. Around 7 a.m., the fish arrive at the households, and the workers in Trung Hau village quickly wash them, make light incisions with knives, then arrange them on racks and dry them. After the fish is prepared, it is quickly put into the ovens for grilling.

Each of these grills produces no less than 1 ton of various types of fish per day. Ms. Luu Thi Trung (Trung Hau hamlet, Dien Van commune), while grilling fish, said: “Grilling fish is a very hard job, requiring diligence and perseverance. We have to start working early in the morning and don’t finish until around 6 or 7 PM every day. In the summer, the fish dries well in the sun, making the grilled fish fragrant and delicious, but those of us who sit and grill the fish work even harder.”

"Even when the outdoor temperature reaches nearly 40 degrees Celsius, my sisters and I still have to sit by that blazing charcoal stove to grill tons of fish. During the rainy season, although it's warm and pleasant, the fish takes longer to dry, so to get the fish cooked to a delicious aroma, it requires a longer grilling time. I've been doing this fish grilling job for almost 10 years now. I've gotten used to it, and more importantly, this is the main source of income for my family."

Ms. Luu Thi Trung (Trung Hau hamlet, Dien Van commune) next to some unfinished grilled fish. Photo: Xuan Hoa

Maintaining the right heat and cooking the fish to perfection requires experience; the more evenly the fish is turned, the more flavorful it becomes. Even those who learn quickly take a year to master the trade. Each day, the women are paid 150,000-170,000 VND per person by the owner of the grill. Their monthly income ranges from 4-5 million VND per person.

According to Nguyen Van Luong, the owner of a fish grill in Trung Phu hamlet, Dien Van commune, his family grills about 1 ton of fish daily, employing about a dozen workers. If all the grilled fish is sold, the net profit is about 500,000-1,000,000 VND per day; if the fish doesn't sell, they incur losses. The most popular grilled fish varieties are herring, mackerel, scad, tuna, barracuda, spotted fish, and other types of fish. Some households also grill squid, but only a few because of its high price and the fact that the main market is usually mountainous districts.

According to the owners of the grills, after being grilled, the fish are transported to several locations in the western mountainous districts of Nghe An province, such as Con Cuong, Que Phong, Tan Ky, and Tuong Duong. Larger grills transport the grilled fish in their family cars, while smaller ones send it via passenger buses.

Most families grilling fish in Trung Hau hamlet have been doing this for 3 to 4 generations. Mr. Dang Van Cong - Chairman of the People's Committee of Dien Van commune - happily said: "The fish grilling profession here has existed for a very long time, but it has only developed strongly in the last 20 years or so. Initially, this fish grilling profession mainly came from households in Trung Hau hamlet, but then it spread to some other hamlets such as Trung Phu, Yen Dong,..."

Currently, the commune has nearly 40 households engaged in the fish grilling business. Since most households currently only utilize vacant land in front of their houses or along the riverbank to set up their grills, we are preparing a proposal to submit to higher authorities to have the craft village recognized so that it can be relocated to a concentrated area, ensuring no environmental impact and sustainable development. If approved, the construction of a concentrated area will give the commune the opportunity to build a more professional fish grilling facility with more systematic and scientific processes, especially regarding food safety and hygiene. At that time, the commune will be able to establish a research committee on the consumer market to help residents proactively manage both input and output.”

According to Mr. Cong, establishing a professional fish grilling area will create hundreds of jobs for young people in the commune; and at the same time, it will be the basis and prerequisite for the Dien Van grilled fish industry to develop widely.

Leaving the fish grilling village of Dien Van as dusk was falling, the charcoal grills along the village road still glowed red, cooking the last batches of fish for the day. The aroma of the grilled fish, infused with the salty taste of the sea, filled the air with the distinctive fragrance of this coastal countryside.

Xuan Hoa - Thu Hien