Vietnamese Tet - Tradition and Modernity
On the occasion of the Lunar New Year 2025 (Year of the Snake), Nghe An Newspaper had a conversation with writer and researcher Bui Viet Thang about the flavor of Tet in poetry and literature and the changes in life during Tet.
Minh Quân (Editor) • January 25, 2025
PV:Dear writer Bui Viet Thang, on the occasion of the upcoming Lunar New Year of the Year of the Snake, as a literary researcher, could you share with readers the essence of spring and the spirit of Tet in your literary works?
Writer Bui Viet Thang:In literature, spring and Tet (Vietnamese New Year) have always been a rich source of inspiration, not only for writers but also for readers. It is no coincidence that the poet Anh Tho (1918-2005), in her collection "Rural Scene" (1941), wrote eight poems praising the beauty of spring and Tet: "Spring Afternoon," "Spring Day," "Spring Night," "Spring Moon Night," "Spring Market," "Afternoon of the Thirtieth Day of Tet," "Night of the Thirtieth Day of Tet," and "Tet Day." Her Tet poems are simple yet rich in the colors and essence of the countryside.“Outside, the muddy lanes are filled with flowing water / A little boy in red trousers rides on his grandmother's back / Girls wearing yellow hats and carrying incense sticks hug their skirts / Their faces beaming with smiles as they wish passersby a happy new year.”(Tet holiday).
However, perhaps the most memorable poet for readers today is Đoàn Văn Cừ (1913-2004), with his distinctive poems about spring and Tet (Vietnamese New Year) in his famous poetry collection "Village Songs" (1944). In this collection, imbued with a rustic charm, he composed 10 poems about spring and Tet: "Spring Sunshine," "Spring," "New Year," "Tet," "Celebrating Spring," "Village Market in Spring," "Tet Market," "Tet in Grandma's Village," "Spring Wedding," and "Festival." The image of traditional Tet in Đoàn Văn Cừ's poetry is so familiar and close to all Vietnamese people."The New Year's pole is planted outside the gate / Its shadow falls on the pond / The cluster of ceramic bells catches the wind / Calling the soldiers to pay their respects from above."It seems that each of us, whether young or old, who has ever returned to our hometown for Tet (Lunar New Year), has surely felt the complete joy of it:"Sticky rice for making banh chung (traditional Vietnamese rice cakes) in the spring/Fish grilled over charcoal on the last night of the twelfth lunar month/Pink trousers, red shirt, paintings of chicken and pig/Fragrant rice, pickled onions, and frozen pork fat"(Tet in my grandmother's hometown).
In particular, the poem "Tet Market" by Doan Van Cu has been passed down and loved by many generations for its vibrant energy and overflowing joy, like intoxicating wine. It can be said that this is a painting of Tet (Vietnamese New Year) created in verse.“People from the villages excitedly head to the Tet market/They happily carry their goods across the green grass/Little boys in red shirts run around/A few old men lean on their canes and walk slowly/A girl in a bright red bodice silently smiles/A baby boy nestles his head against his mother's bodice/Two villagers carrying pigs run ahead”It was a peaceful, idyllic scene, exuding the simple, rustic atmosphere of honest, kind-hearted farmers. A close-up view of the Tet market came to life vividly:“Buyers and sellers crowd the market gate/The buffalo stands pretending to sleep with its eyes half-closed/To listen to the customers' loud chatter/The painting vendor, creaking under his two baskets/Finds a crowded spot to sit and sell/A scholar hunches over a wooden platform/His hands grind ink, busily writing spring poems/An old Confucian scholar stops to stroke his beard/Mouth murmuring a few lines of red couplets/An old woman selling goods by the ancient temple/The waters of time have washed her hair snow-white.”
Tet (Vietnamese Lunar New Year) is not only found in poetry but also in literature. I am particularly impressed by the short story "Tet Market" by writer Nguyen Minh Chau (1930-1989) - a son of Nghe An province. This is a story about a Tet market in a coastal village, on land still devastated by bombs and bullets:“On the uneven, bumpy ground, two makeshift huts made of bamboo and thatched roofs stood isolated. Inside one hut, a book stall from a state-owned shop was set up, primarily displaying paintings of carp, fruit platters, and several sets of couplets. In the far corner of another hut sat an old fortune teller wearing a gray Sun Yat-sen style jacket, like a tax official.”Overcoming hardship, the writer has depicted a vibrant and energetic flow of the people:"Dinh enjoyed gazing at the red-painted clay pigs, the clay horns shaped like roosters, and the indifferent branches of flowers made of glittery paper riddled with needle marks. Pushing his way through the crowd of children gathered around a table, Dinh watched a young man in a worn-out fedora, his face pockmarked, spinning clay figurines… Something surrounded Dinh, an atmosphere always enveloping him—a familiarity, a long-standing, unbroken way of life displayed in this early Tet market that captivated and moved him."
PV:Besides poetry and prose, what other aspects of traditional Vietnamese Tet (Lunar New Year) did he take an interest in?
Writer Bui Viet Thang:I am also very interested in the culinary culture of traditional Vietnamese Tet. During Tet, talking about food is not just about enjoying delicious dishes, but also about evoking the refined pleasure of enjoying material things. As writer Nguyen Tuan put it, the beauty of culinary culture lies not only in the food itself, but also in the setting, with whom it is practiced, and with what mindset, befitting the demeanor of a "refined and cultured person."
From ancient times, the couplet has been:"Pork fat, pickled onions, red couplets / New Year's pole, firecrackers, green sticky rice cakes"It reflects the traditional Tet (Lunar New Year) customs of the Vietnamese people, spanning thousands of years. In traditional culinary culture, "food" (dishes) is usually more abundant than "drinks" (drinks). On a Vietnamese Tet feast table, common dishes include: Banh chung (in the North and Central regions) or Banh tet (in the South), gio cha (pork sausage), boiled chicken, sticky rice, pork (boiled or fried), meat jelly, fried spring rolls, bamboo shoots, vermicelli, pickled onions, salad, etc.
Traditional Tet (Lunar New Year) celebrations were simple, mainly consisting of local liquors, with famous specialties such as leaf-fermented rice wine (Lang Son), Meo Vac corn wine (Ha Giang), Lang Van wine (Bac Giang), Kim Son wine (Ninh Binh), Bau Da wine (Binh Dinh), Go Den wine (Long An), Nghi Loc wine (Nghe An), and Can Loc wine (Ha Tinh)... Refreshments usually included loose leaf tea, green tea, lemonade, orange juice (to help with hangovers), or coconut water. Desserts included various candies and cakes such as sticky rice cake, peanut candy, and chewy candy (often called "twin sisters"), or traditional jams such as lotus seed, ginger, peanut, pumpkin, coconut, persimmon, kumquat, and apple... These jams were especially suitable to be enjoyed with tea.
Traditional Tet cuisine is not limited to just the feast table; it is also supported by other elements such as red couplets, the New Year's pole, and firecrackers. It can be said that if cuisine is the "internal setting," then the "external setting" consists of the colors, sounds, and characteristic objects that contribute to the vibrant and diverse tapestry of traditional Tet.
During the subsidy period and wartime, despite difficult economic conditions, the Tet feast was carefully preserved, maintaining traditional flavors, but also subtly incorporating new elements. The "drinking" aspect gradually included state-owned liquors such as lemon wine, orange wine, and coffee wine, with eye-catching colors and rich flavors. Two bottles of colored liquor on the altar often made the space more solemn and reflected a modern feel. In addition, high-quality state-owned teas like Ba Dinh, Hong Dao, and Thanh Huong became popular beverages. Desserts were supplemented with candies and cakes from famous brands such as Hai Ha, Hai Chau, and Hanoi, creating a Tet atmosphere that was both familiar and modern.
PV:Over time, the Vietnamese Lunar New Year has undergone many changes compared to the past. Could you share your thoughts on this?
Writer Bui Viet Thang:In a flat world, change is inevitable. Cultural researcher Phan Ngoc once remarked: "Interaction means compromise from both sides. Therefore, sooner or later, Vietnamese culture will take on new nuances, reflecting the characteristics of Southeast Asia and the world." With the current Vietnamese Tet (Lunar New Year), many traditional elements have gradually faded away, such as the New Year's pole (in large cities and some localities), or have completely disappeared due to legal regulations, such as firecrackers (recently, fireworks have been permitted). In the age of @ and 4.0, young people and middle-aged people are gradually shifting from "eating" to "playing." Young families or those with grown children often organize outdoor activities, picnics, or travel domestically and internationally in groups, thanks to family or work connections.
In contemporary Vietnamese Tet (Lunar New Year) culinary culture, the "food" aspect has changed more significantly than the "drinking" aspect. Many cultural researchers have mentioned the concepts of "wine culture" and "beer culture" when discussing Tet cuisine. Asians, especially Japan, China, and Vietnam, traditionally drank rice wine, but this habit is gradually decreasing, replaced by Western-origin beverages such as wine and beer.
On family altars, traditional offerings rarely feature bottles of homemade rice wine with banana leaf stoppers. Instead, there are lighter wines (such as Italian, French, and Spanish) or higher-alcohol spirits like Cognac and Whisky. Some families even display cans of beer or soft drinks like Coca-Cola and Pepsi, with the belief that "what happens in the earthly realm is reflected in the spiritual realm." The general trend among modern people, especially young people, is to prioritize "drinks" over "food." Among beverages, beer is often the most popular, even becoming a trend from North to South. Older people, women, and children prefer wine or soft drinks with their alluring flavors.
Modern Tet also features a new beautiful custom: launching tree planting and reforestation campaigns, because, as President Ho Chi Minh once said:"For the benefit of ten years, plant trees; for the benefit of a hundred years, cultivate people."Each person can begin by doing good deeds, as Uncle Ho advised:Spring is the time for planting trees/Making the country ever more beautiful and vibrant."Tree planting is not just a short-term campaign or a competitive movement, but also a beautiful custom, an expression of civilization and culture, stemming from the profound principle: "Humans are a part of nature."
PV:As a native of Nghe An province, born in Ha Tinh, spending his childhood in Nghe An, and always looking towards his homeland throughout his years of work, how does he feel about the unique atmosphere of Tet in Nghe An?
Writer Bui Viet Thang:When talking about Tet (Lunar New Year) in Nghe An province, especially Nghe An itself, one cannot fail to mention the vibrant colors and flavors of Tet celebrated by the ethnic minority groups. Currently, in Nghe An, there are five of the most populous ethnic minority groups: Thai, Tho, Kho Mu, Mong, and O Du. In the context of an open and interconnected world, cultures tend to integrate but still retain their unique identities – it is this difference that creates harmony.
To fully experience the diversity and richness of traditional Tet (Lunar New Year) blended with modern Tet in Nghe An province, you shouldn't just stop to admire and enjoy the festive atmosphere in cities, towns, or large industrial zones. Instead, venture into the mountainous and border regions of the province – the largest in the country (after Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City). There, you'll encounter the sounds of the Hmong and Thai people's flutes and folk dances; blooming peach and plum orchards in the valleys; pristine, fragrant rice wine; delicious dishes like clean pork, free-range chicken, fresh wild vegetables, and all the pure flavors of nature from the mountains, forests, rivers, and streams. Western Nghe An is also famous for its vibrant brocade fabrics, making it a captivating destination at the end of the year.
As the year ends and Tet approaches, if you have the opportunity, head to western Nghe An province to buy sweet, fresh oranges to place on the five-fruit offering tray at the ancestral altar. If you can afford it, don't forget to bring back a few magnificent wild peach blossom branches to decorate the traditional Tet atmosphere amidst the bustling city.
If you live in Vinh City, the three days of Tet (Lunar New Year) are usually spent visiting temples (seeking out the sights), both as a way to celebrate Tet and as a spiritual act of good fortune. When I was a child, I often followed adults to famous temples in Vinh town (which became a city in 1963), such as Diệc Temple, Sư Nữ Temple, Tập Phúc Temple… At that time, the movement to visit Ông Hoàng Mười Temple wasn't as vibrant as it is now, neither in Nghe An nor Ha Tinh.
Nowadays, with modern and well-maintained roads, convenient transportation, and a more open heart towards nature and deities, you can visit Huong Tich Pagoda (Can Loc, Ha Tinh) or other famous temples such as Corn Temple and Cuong Temple in northern Nghe An, along with many other temples and pagodas, to experience the traditional Tet atmosphere spreading throughout Nghe An province.
PV:Thank you for the conversation!
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