Savor the flavors of the mountains and forests with Pa Pỉnh Tộp grilled fish.
Anyone who has ever experienced or tasted Pa Pỉnh Tộp grilled fish, prepared by the Thai ethnic people in western Nghe An province, will surely find it hard to forget this simple yet distinctive dish, associated with the process, preparation methods, and characteristic ingredients "infused with the flavors of the mountains and forests" of the highland people.
Hoai Thu/Present:Hong ToaiAugust 8, 2026
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Anyone who has ever experienced or tasted Pa Pỉnh Tộp grilled fish, prepared by the Thai ethnic people in western Nghe An province, will surely find it hard to forget this simple yet distinctive dish, associated with the process, preparation methods, and characteristic ingredients "infused with the flavors of the mountains and forests" of the highland people.
Although we have visited the highlands of Nghe An many times and enjoyed many rustic dishes of the ethnic minorities, the dish that is both popular and deeply rooted in local culture that we remember most is Pa Pỉnh Tộp grilled fish.
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Having the opportunity to directly prepare the Pa Pỉnh Tộp dish with the family of Mr. Vi Văn Mằn and Ms. Kha Thị My (of the Thái ethnic group) in Chiêu Lưu 1 village, Chiêu Lưu commune, gave us unforgettable experiences.
First, there's the experience of catching fish (the main ingredient of the dish) from the pond, which Mr. Vi Van Mann and his wife have been raising and caring for for almost a year. Mr. Mann says that for the dish to be at its best, the fish must be caught directly from their pond, fresh and alive, before being processed.
To make authentic Pa Pỉnh Tộp, the preparation process is a skillful combination of natural ingredients and traditional techniques. On the way home from the pond with the fish, Mr. Vi Văn Mằn cuts an extra bamboo stick and gathers various herbs and spices.
Bamboo is split into small strips used to clamp the fish while grilling. The basic spices used to marinate the fish are readily available in most families' gardens, including lemongrass, fresh chili peppers, and lime leaves, combined with familiar seasonings like salt and MSG. Adding crushed, fragrant mắc khén seeds to the marinade gives the grilled fish a uniquely distinctive aroma, with a mild spiciness and rich flavor.
The unique and familiar aspect of the local people's preparation process for Pa Pỉnh Tộp lies in the way they gut the fish: Instead of gutting it through the belly as is commonly done, they gut it along the backbone. This method requires skill to ensure a precise cut, allowing the fish to easily fold, preserving the rich belly fat and ensuring that the spices are evenly absorbed into each piece of meat.
All the spices are finely ground and used to marinate the fish for at least 30 minutes. Then, the fish is tightly clamped between two fresh bamboo sticks to help it maintain its attractive shape and prevent it from falling when flipped over on the hot charcoal grill.
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The final and most important step takes place directly by the glowing fire. Mr. Mann has to adjust the flames, ensuring the fish is grilled slowly over charcoal. The smoldering heat from the charcoal and fire helps the heat penetrate deep inside, cooking the fish evenly while retaining its moisture and natural sweetness, preventing it from drying out or burning.
When the fish fat begins to sizzle on the glowing coals, the rich aroma of spices mingled with the distinctive smoky scent of the kitchen spreads throughout the house. That's when Pa Pỉnh Tộp is complete, golden brown and appealing on the outside, and full of the flavors of the mountains and forests on the inside. Enjoying grilled fish with fragrant sticky rice steamed in a bamboo or wooden steamer is the best way to fully experience the essence of highland cuisine.
Around the cozy fireplace, with delicious food and strong, spicy wine, diners savor the tasty dishes while reminiscing about the culinary culture of their people. Vi Văn Mằn shared that, looking back in time, one can see an interesting shift when comparing the way their ancestors prepared Pa Pỉnh Tộp with the creative adaptations of today's generation.
First, regarding the preparation method, in the old days, our ancestors usually only prepared this dish using small fish found along streams and creeks. After the fish were gutted along the backbone and marinated with spices, they would be hung over the kitchen fire. The heat and smoke from the daily cooking fire would envelop and dry the fish, preventing spoilage and allowing it to be preserved for a very long time.
“In the past, there were no food storage cabinets like today. Whenever people went to the stream and caught a large quantity of fish, if they couldn't consume it all that day, they used fire and natural processing methods to preserve the fresh fish for a long time. And the smoked Pa Pỉnh Tộp fish dish was also preserved in this way. When they wanted to eat it, they just took the smoked fish down, grilled it over charcoal or steamed it, and they had a delicious dish right away,” shared Mr. Vi Văn Mằn.
However, today's generations have applied their ancestors' experience in preparing Pa Pỉnh Tộp grilled fish, while also making innovations to suit modern cuisine. The most noticeable change lies in the ingredients. No longer limited to small, tender fish, Pa Pỉnh Tộp is now made from larger fish (some weighing up to 4-5 kg). For larger fish, cooks cannot keep them whole, but will divide them into two halves or cut them into smaller pieces. This improvement helps the thick flesh of the fish cook evenly from the inside out without burning the outer skin.
What is admirable is that ethnic minorities in general, and the Thai people in particular, despite changes in the preparation of traditional dishes—embracing new technologies (refrigeration cabinets) and a wider variety of ingredients—have not lost the essence of the dish. The soul of Pa Pỉnh Tộp grilled fish—from the unique way of cutting along the backbone to the delicate combination of spices like mắc khén, lemongrass, and lime leaves, as well as the method of grilling directly over charcoal—has been cherished and preserved intact through generations.
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Besides the famous Pa Pỉnh Tộp grilled fish, the Thai ethnic people also possess a rich art of preparing fish with unique raw (or semi-raw) dishes, such as the preparation of fish laap. Fresh fish is cleaned, the flesh is filleted, and then sliced into thin, bite-sized pieces or diced. These juicy pieces of fish are then thoroughly mixed with crushed wild mulberry leaves and spices, creating a dish with a refreshing sweet and sour taste. The flavor of fish laap is truly enhanced by the addition of characteristic accompanying spices. Indispensable in this dish is galangal juice, which completely removes the fishy smell of raw fish and brings a warm, harmonious flavor to the dish.
Whether it's Pa Pỉnh Tộp or fish salad, when enjoying it, the locals often pick various forest leaves and herbs from their gardens to make wrappers, encasing the rich, flavorful fish meat inside, creating an unforgettable taste for anyone who has tried it.
It is evident that the preservation and continuation across generations have helped Thai culinary culture transcend the confines of individual family kitchens and meals, transforming it into a cultural product, a community tourism service, and an attractive culinary highlight for visitors experiencing the local area.
