The ups and downs of the trees in Vinh City

Skyscrapers rise, canals turn green again, old and new people come and go, trees fall and new shoots sprout, shaping the form and soul of the city, with countless memories clinging to the minds of its citizens.

The Indian almond tree in the old apartment complex. Photo: Le Thang

Anyone who is a resident of Vinh City, or has a special connection to this land, surely has their own unique memories, however vague or profound, about the trees here. I suspect this is the case because, unlike many large cities in Vietnam, Vinh City has a relatively high density of urban green space, consistently ranking in the top 5 nationwide according to the Vietnam Greenery Association for many years.

In 2017, this figure was approximately 11.5 m2 per person. Apparently, on average, the city government allocates 12 billion VND annually from its budget (17 billion VND in 2017 alone) to plant, improve, and protect the system of trees, lawns, and flowers on streets and public areas. Therefore, in Vinh City, it's no exaggeration to say that you'll encounter trees of all shapes and sizes as soon as you open your door, step out of your house, or touch the street.

The kapok trees are in bloom along Truong Van Linh street. Photo: Trung Ha.

Few people know that Vinh City is home to unique and rare tree species. Every day, as countless people pass along the Phong Dinh Cang - Nguyen Van Troi road, have they noticed a tall tree at the intersection of the two roads – dubbed the "national tree" of Madagascar, a distant island nation in the Indian Ocean? The tree is called the baobab – its ancestors originated in distant Africa, and some botanists believe its lifespan could reach thousands of years (?).

I've lingered along this street many times, curiously inquiring with locals about the "past" of this unique tree, but I haven't found much useful information. The city dwellers seem unaware of its age, only speculating that this baobab tree is one of only six currently growing in Vietnam. That's incredibly rare, isn't it? But the hustle and bustle of life sweeps everything away quickly. Perhaps the only remaining impression of this unique tree is the sign that reads "Baobab Cafe"—a familiar haunt for Vinh University students. The cafe's staff, one after another, have all seemingly heard customers ask at least once: "Why is the cafe named Baobab?" This seemingly random question unexpectedly became a reminder and a way to hold onto the image of a tree from distant Africa, allowing it to become tangible in the memories of contemporary city dwellers.

The park is covered in greenery. Photo: Hai Vuong

Vinh City has many trees, but no single tree species has yet become a "trademark" of the city. While Hanoi is fragrant with the scent of milkwood, Hai Phong is ablaze with the red of flamboyant flowers, and Hue is dreamily purple with the blossoms of crape myrtle... it's difficult to name a single tree or flower to identify Vinh City. The city's greenery truly lives up to the playful saying: "Each season has its own bounty!"

Anyone who travels along Le Mao Street knows that for a long time, this street has been famous for its row of ancient mahogany trees. For decades, these trees have been intertwined with the street, witnessing countless changes and ups and downs, becoming an integral part of this inner-city thoroughfare. Even before the mahogany trees had fully formed their canopies on the sidewalks of the old street, Le Mao Street proudly boasted a modern building – the Provincial Labor Cultural Center – which hosted numerous cultural, artistic, and celebratory events of all sizes.

Then, when the road was extended into the new Vinh Tan urban area, with countless apartment buildings, multi-story houses, and shops springing up like mushrooms, the row of mahogany trees witnessed the ups and downs of this new street. Whether the sun rose or the rain fell, the shimmering golden leaves of the trees, like doves in the sky, or drenched in the misty haze, the mahogany trees stood there, silently, remembering everything in their green memory.

The vibrant red of the flamboyant tree blossoms at the beginning of summer at Quang Trung apartment complex. Photo by Thanh Cuong.

It's impossible to name all the trees in Vinh City: Terminalia catappa, flamboyant tree, crape myrtle, Barringtonia alatus, Terminalia chebula, Areca catechu, Areca catechu, and even mango, Terminalia catappa, palm, Dipterocarpus macrophyllus, and Paulownia... From mid-March onwards, walking along many streets, one's heart is stirred by the sight of Barringtonia alatus trees changing their leaves. The transition between layers of green, yellow-orange, and deep red leaves creates a romantic and poetic scene that is difficult to describe. Barringtonia alatus trees are not planted in rows or densely along any particular street, but are scattered along a couple of roads like Le Loi Street, Lenin Avenue, and Ho Goong Lake...

That scarcity becomes an unexpected and memorable highlight for the familiar city dwellers, a sudden change of season that makes them realize with astonishment how beautiful the trees they pass by every day actually are! The "changing of the leaves" season of the Barringtonia trees doesn't last long, about a week or so, but the impression of the "forest" of red leaves evokes a feeling of nostalgia for a truly different Vinh City.

Purple crape myrtle flowers adorn a street corner. Photo: Trung Ha

Surrounding the verdant landscape of Vinh City are stories of both joy and sorrow. A few years ago, in a casual conversation with the leader of the unit responsible for planting and caring for the city's trees, he lamented: trees provide shade and enhance the scenery, but not all residents like trees, love them, or respect the efforts of those who care for them! While not many, some households still arbitrarily cut back the branches and leaves... because they believe large trees will overshadow and darken their homes, or because the homeowners think a particular type of tree is unsuitable and try to "eliminate" it.

It sounds unbelievable, but some people are dumping oil and dirty waste at night, or nailing nails into the trunks of trees to prevent them from growing. How can they treat trees like that – the city's closest companions, without which this urban area would be nothing more than soulless blocks of concrete, devoid of memories!

It's no exaggeration to say that the trees have become an integral part of this city's soul. Imagine streets like Ngu Hai, Dinh Cong Trang, Le Mao, Le Hoan, Duy Tan, Le Hong Phong, Nguyen Van Cu, Phan Dinh Phung, Phan Boi Chau... without a single tree; where would the beauty of these inner-city streets be, and what would those who leave remember the city fondly? The city continues to grow silently day by day. Now, many buildings are taller than all the trees in the world. But even so, what can replace the beauty of those magical layers of greenery?