Bac Son has existing sedimentary deposits.

(Baonghean) - More than a year ago, I went on a tourism potential survey trip with the Nghe An Tourism Information and Promotion Center and travel companies in the area. Among the many destinations, historical sites, and scenic spots that we had the opportunity to visit, I was particularly impressed by Bac Son village, a settlement less than 1 km long.²but it boasts a diverse range of religious structures. On this occasion, I fulfilled a promise I made to myself, returning to Bac Son to learn more about this land rich in historical heritage.

From National Highway 46, passing through Nam Dan town, our car crossed the Sa Nam bridge and turned right towards Bac Son village. Although only a few hundred meters from the town center, upon entering the village, one easily feels the rustic, heartwarming atmosphere embracing the lives and activities of its inhabitants. Perhaps that's why visitors from afar, upon setting foot on this land, walk more gently, speaking softly as if afraid to disturb the simple, peaceful atmosphere of this nearly thousand-year-old village. Bac Son village belongs to Van Dien commune, Nam Dan district. It's quite strange, this ancient land, formerly part of the old Van An citadel and now Van Dien, is known as the place where the peasant hero Mai Thuc Loan – Mai Hac De – established his empire. When visiting Van Dien, people often focus their attention on the historical relics and structures related to the life and career of King Mai, unaware that not far away lies the strangely captivating Bac Son village.

Mr. Vuong Truong Thu, representative of the Bac Son historical site management board, greeted us with a friendly, simple smile typical of rural people. Hearing our request to tour the village's historical site complex, he honestly said, "It takes a lot of time. There's a pagoda, two temples, a village communal house, and a village well here. All are historical relics." Then he led us on a stroll under the fragrant magnolia trees to the pagoda located in the center of the village. Duc Son Pagoda is the name of the pagoda, dating back to the Tran Dynasty. It's also known colloquially as "Nam Pagoda" because during the Ly-Tran dynasties, this area was called "Ke Nam." As an ancient architectural structure, Duc Son Pagoda boasts a beautiful location facing northeast. Right in front of the pagoda gate are inscribed couplets: "The banner of the Dharma flies high, meeting righteous gatherings / The gate of compassion opens wide to welcome guests from other realms"; literally meaning the gate of compassion in the Buddhist realm is always open to welcome those with hearts yearning for tranquility...

Duc Son Temple.

According to a survey by the Nghe An Provincial Relics and Scenic Spots Management Board, Duc Son Pagoda is classified as a historical and architectural-artistic relic. In the past, the entire village area belonged to the pagoda, with architectural structures such as the triple gate, stupa (monk's tomb), the Six Paths House, the ancestral house, the lower pagoda, the upper pagoda, and the pagoda well... forming an independent, solemn, and majestic historical site. Through many historical changes and the ravages of time, the pagoda's land has shrunk, the once magnificent triple gate is gone, and the stupas are damaged. However, thankfully, despite many changes and the need for numerous restorations and repairs, the pagoda has retained its unique ancient features. Currently, it still preserves architectural structures such as the pagoda gate, courtyard, altar for the ten categories of beings, guardian tower, Six Paths House, ancestral house, lower pagoda, and upper pagoda. Particularly noteworthy is the system of statues – the soul of the pagoda – which remains intact. In addition, Duc Son Pagoda also houses artifacts of great artistic value such as ancient bells and a set of 210 wooden blocks carved with Buddhist scriptures. Anyone who has ever set foot in Bac Son and entered the pagoda will be amazed by the system of 38 ancient statues, some over 200 years old, with exquisitely carved wood carvings that reflect the unique artistic concepts and thinking of the people during a historical period. Among them are sets of statues of high historical and artistic value such as: the Three Buddhas, the Amitabha Triad, the Jade Emperor, the Avalokiteśvara Bodhisattva, the Avatamsaka Triad, the infant Buddha, the Venerable Master and Ananda, the Golden Boy and Jade Girl... and even a statue of the pagoda's abbot.

Mr. Vuong Truong Thu said that after a long period without a resident abbess, in June 2015, according to the assignment of the Executive Board of the Nghe An Buddhist Association and with the approval of the Provincial People's Committee, Venerable Nun Thich Nu Quang Tinh assumed the role of abbess of Duc Son Pagoda. It's regrettable that the Venerable Nun was not present at the pagoda when we arrived, but we are still very happy that Duc Son Pagoda has found its place within the Buddhist Association and in the people's belief in goodness.

Located within the same grounds as Duc Son Pagoda is Duc Son Temple. This is what made our initial unfamiliarity even more fascinating. The blend of Buddhism and Taoism is clearly evident in this small plot of land. Duc Son Pagoda and the temple of the same name lean shoulder to shoulder, as if inseparable. Mr. Vuong Truong Thu said that on the first and fifteenth days of the lunar month, local people often visit both places for worship. Duc Son Temple was formerly known as Vo Mieu, a temple dedicated to the Holy Mother. The first impression of the temple is the ancient features of the triple-arched gate. On the low, time-worn walls are tiny wildflowers, like sparks of fire, stirring the emotions of travelers. Many say that Duc Son Temple was built in the 17th century, but some also believe that Vo Mieu was built at the same time as Duc Son Pagoda. However, these theories are now less important than the fact that both architectural structures coexist and rekindle the spiritual values ​​of the people.

Similar to Duc Son Pagoda, Duc Son Temple still preserves 110 woodblock-carved Bibles and many ancient books. Here, we met Mr. Le Quang Huong, head of the Bac Son historical site management team. Mr. Huong showed us four royal decrees bestowing divine status upon Duc Son Temple by the Nguyen dynasty kings. Mr. Le Quang Huong explained that the temple festival is held annually on the 3rd day of the 3rd lunar month to express gratitude to the Holy Mother, who has protected the people from calamities and hardships.

Bac Son has only 130 households with over 500 inhabitants, whose people work and earn their living year-round on just 34 acres of rice paddies. The entire village is nestled within less than 1 square kilometer. Yet, they possess an incredibly rich spiritual life. Perhaps these elements were nurtured from the time when Bac Son was part of the Van An citadel complex, where King Mai Thuc Loan launched his rebellion against the Tang Dynasty (China) in the 8th century. This is further evident as we continued our stroll along the village road to visit Nam Son Temple. Nam Son Temple is also respectfully called Duc Ong Temple by the locals, because it was built to worship one of the 12 generals under Mai Thuc Loan. To this day, no one knows the general's real name, but legend says that in his youth he was handsome and intelligent. Coming from a family of officials, he had the opportunity to interact widely with many social classes, and therefore he understood the suffering of a people who had lost their country. From then on, he harbored the ambition to find talented people to help the people and save the country, and he met Mai Thúc Loan... From the first battle until the liberation of Hoan Châu and the establishment of the Vạn An state, this general always played an important role in the strategy of fighting the enemy and building the country. When Mai Thúc Loan ascended the throne as Emperor, he appointed him as a Great General, and he became one of the pillars of the court. To commemorate and show gratitude to him, after the failed uprising (726), the people of Sa Nam built a temple to him at the foot of Nậm mountain (the location of the old Nậm Sơn fort). According to documents of the Nghệ An Relics and Scenic Spots Management Board, in the old Nam Đàn area there were many temples to worship the generals of Mai Hắc Đế, but Nậm Sơn is the only temple remaining to worship a general in the very area of ​​the old Vạn An base. Later, the people also worshipped another general of King Mai, Bá Lâm, the great commander. The temple has also been recognized by the State as a historical and cultural relic playing an important role in the religious life of the people. Currently, Nam Son Temple still preserves many valuable artifacts such as: altars, dragon-shaped palanquins, dragon thrones, ancestral tablets, large inscriptions, horizontal plaques, couplets... Notably, the temple still preserves 5 royal decrees from the Nguyen dynasty, from the time of Emperor Canh Thinh to Emperor Duy Tan.

In this small village, there is also an ancient communal house dedicated to the tutelary deity and an old well with a diameter of nearly 5 meters and a depth of easily 15 meters. All of these elements recreate a space steeped in the peaceful, old-world charm amidst the hustle and bustle of modern life. In Bac Son, the locals still pass down the saying: "The land of the king, the village temple, the scenery of Buddha / People of this land, a land of immortals." And if anyone needs a moment of tranquility, they should come to Bac Son to find peace of mind.

Dao Tuan