"...The vast Trường Sơn mountain range is filled with the spirits of fallen soldiers."
In the last days of July, amidst the scorching sun, we traveled to Quang Tri to visit the Truong Son Cemetery. Along both sides of the road stretched the vast green expanse of rubber and coconut forests, replacing the jagged bomb craters of yesteryear.
Quang Tri – a land once scarred by bombs and bullets of war, today peacefully embraces the resting place of sons and daughters from all over the country. A friend from Quang Tri said: Quang Tri has 72 cemeteries, with nearly 60,000 martyrs from all over the country gathered here, the largest of which is still the Truong Son National Cemetery.
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There is no war without loss and sacrifice; there is no final departure that does not deeply touch our souls with sorrow and remembrance. And with Truong Son Martyrs' Cemetery, these things are multiplied many times over. This is the eternal resting place of the beloved sons and daughters of the Fatherland who fell during the 16 years of opening, maintaining, and developing the legendary Ho Chi Minh Trail. Construction of the cemetery began in October 1975 and was completed in April 1977. Through three renovations, restorations, and upgrades, Truong Son Cemetery has become a spiritual and cultural landmark, a historical relic of the 20th-century revolutionary war, a place where morality, pride, and the tradition of remembering one's roots return to the nation.
The Truong Son Cemetery is located on Ben Tat hill in Vinh Truong commune, Gio Linh district. Near the entrance gate is a ceremonial area situated on a high hill, a complex of structures that bring together beloved images of the nation such as the banyan tree, the riverbank, and the village communal house. In the center, where a sacred Bodhi tree nearly 30 years old spreads its branches and casts its shade, stands a majestic three-faced monument, soaring high in the open space. The three sides of the monument stand firmly in a tripod formation, symbolizing the solidarity of the three Indochinese countries sharing a common trench against the Americans. From the monument, one can see lower hills, a wide lake, and a generous and romantic view. Surrounding the monument are six bas-reliefs depicting the various branches of the Truong Son army on their way to battle, peaceful yet lively, brave yet endearing.
Within the nearly 40-hectare grounds lies a solemn silence, the vast expanse of 10,263 white tombstones stretching endlessly into the Trường Sơn mountain range. I suddenly recalled a poem by the poet Hoàng Cẩm Giang:
"Just sleep soundly, honey."
The sky of yesteryear was calm and sunny throughout the four seasons.
...Truong Son loves him, so the forest leaves turn red.
And the clouds are silent - the white clouds are still here now...".
(Lullaby of Truong Son)
In the tranquil silence of the mountains and forests, amidst that endless white expanse, the immortal achievements of the Trường Sơn soldiers blend sweetly with the rivers, banyan trees, riverbanks, and village courtyards of some familiar, close-knit Vietnamese countryside. Born in all parts of the country, these men and women shared a common path to the battlefield – the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Following the call of Trường Sơn, young men and women marched in droves through the years. Generations charged forward, contributing to the nation's unification and independence. Then, generation after generation lay buried on the Bến Tắt hill. For over 30 years, they rest peacefully in the arduous yet loyal and fragrant land of Quảng Trị. The towering monuments and rows of white tombstones remain, but each time we visit, it feels as if we are transported to the divisions, the youth volunteer brigades, and the civilian labor routes of the Trường Sơn front in the fight against the Americans. Perhaps the legend of Truong Son is always present in everyone's subconscious, reminding us of the glory and loss, the happiness and pain of those glorious historical days.
Every day, the Truong Son National Martyrs' Cemetery welcomes hundreds of visitors from provinces across Vietnam. Groups of people walk in solemn silence, filled with emotion and sorrow... Each burial area has a memorial house with architecture reflecting the landscapes of the country. The martyrs' cemetery of Nghe An is no exception. Along with thousands of other comrades, for over 30 years, 1,032 graves, 1,032 outstanding sons and daughters of Nghe An, rest amidst the green Truong Son mountain range, in the rustling of pine trees, beside the fragrant magnolia blossoms, and under the poignant red of flamboyant flowers each summer. In 2006, the province invested nearly 1.2 billion VND to build a memorial house for the martyrs from Nghe An at the Truong Son National Martyrs' Cemetery. The project was completed on the occasion of the 60th anniversary of the War Invalids and Martyrs' Day (2007). The memorial is a beautiful tribute to the souls of the beloved sons and daughters of our homeland who bravely fought and sacrificed their lives on the Ho Chi Minh Trail in the past. In the center of the memorial is a plaque bearing the names of the martyrs. The districts with the most sons and daughters who fought and died on the Truong Son Trail are Thanh Chuong with 196, Do Luong with 156, Dien Chau with 138, Yen Thanh with 131, and Quynh Luu with 127... Most of these young men and women sacrificed their lives at a very young age, just entering their twenties, full of ambition and aspirations.
These days, not only we but many people from Nghe An are making pilgrimages to Truong Son Cemetery to visit the graves of their loved ones. Trembling hands light incense, tears well up... I had the opportunity to chat with Mr. Nguyen Kim Hoi, from My Son, who came to light incense for his brother, martyr Nguyen Kim Quyen (born in 1953, died in 1973). Mr. Hoi said that every year, it has become a tradition, on July 27th, he and several families from the district come here to light incense for their relatives. Everyone is very happy to see that, thanks to the attention of the provincial leaders and departments, the cemetery in Nghe An is becoming more spacious and beautiful.
We left the cemetery amidst the lingering scent of incense and the resonant, echoing sound of the memorial bells. Allow me to borrow the verses of Professor Vu Khieu, inscribed on the memorial bell, as a concluding remark:
"The vast Trường Sơn mountain range is filled with the spirits of martyrs."
The East Sea is overflowing with heroic spirit.
Three mind-shaking recruitment rounds
"Thousands of miles of mountains and rivers, burdened with deep affection."
Minh Quan
