Clam harvesting on the Lam River

(Baonghean) - The early summer sunlight gildes the water's surface, and the ferry slowly carries passengers across the river. From Xuan Lam ferry terminal, looking to the right bank, small figures of people can be seen amidst the river. The ferryman says that during the clam-gathering season, the Lam River, flowing through Khanh Son commune, Nam Dan district, is always crowded and bustling. The clam-gathering season here begins from March to June according to the lunar calendar.

About 100 meters from the Van Ru ferry landing, mounds of sand and gravel accumulate, with the river water only reaching knee-deep for adults. Amidst the vast expanse of river and fields, figures hunched over, sifting and sorting through clams resemble tiny egrets. Seeing strangers taking pictures, everyone seemed hesitant, with some calling out, "Why photograph this hard and laborious scene?"

The Lam River is bustling with people gathering clams.

After much effort, we finally managed to strike up a conversation with Mr. Hoa in Hamlet 6. His gaunt figure and dark complexion made him look much older than his 60 years. Originally a fisherman, the lives of the people in the area depended on the river. Clam gathering was once the livelihood of many families. About 30 years ago, people would flock to the river from dawn, children, adults, and the elderly with ropes around their necks, trudging along until almost noon before returning home. Mr. Hoa himself didn't know when clam gathering began or when he started gathering clams, only that it was very familiar... His childhood was filled with the pungent smell of clam shells, and he played traditional Vietnamese games like "O An Quan" (a board game) with other children around the towering piles of shells along the dike at the edge of the village. Now, life has improved considerably, and his health isn't what it used to be, but he still occasionally goes to this riverbank to gather clams for soup...

Every day after school, Hoang would go to the river to collect clams.

Clam gathering is a job that involves being immersed in water all day, easily leading to bone and joint diseases. They spend the whole day exposed to the sun and water, then work tirelessly at night sorting and washing clams. They snatch a short nap, then wake up at 3 am to light the stove and boil the clams. "Three boiling, two overflowing," the pot boils, the water overflows, and they stir with chopsticks until the clams open their shells. Then they are scooped out to drain and begin the process of extracting the meat. This stage requires skill and patience from the women. The clam boiling process is complex and elaborate; many people sell the clams directly to traders after gathering them.

Most of the fishermen in Khanh Son commune have now moved ashore, and the clam-gathering profession is no longer as appealing to them. Instead, they have taken up mulberry cultivation and silkworm farming, and the lush green rice and corn fields provide them with a comfortable and prosperous life. However, the longing for the river still lingers in the hearts of the fishermen. During the dry season, this stretch of river becomes bustling with clam gatherers. Whenever they miss the cool, sweet taste of clam soup, they take advantage of the warm sunshine to go to the river and gather clams. Mrs. Hoa and her husband, retired teachers, seeing everyone gathering clams, also grabbed their baskets and sacks and joined in. After gathering about 3 kilograms of shelled clams, she was delighted to have clam soup for her family's dinner. Ms. Hien from Hamlet 6 also took the opportunity to visit her fields, bringing along her clam-gathering tools. All she needed was a slightly thick woven basket, a rake, and a sack to start her work. She said, "During the dry season, clams are washed ashore in this section of the river by the sand and pebbles. They all feed on the Lam River water, but for some reason, the clams in this section are much fatter and sweeter than those from other places. The darker the shell, the fatter the clam because it feeds on plankton, while the yellow-shelled clams feed on sand and aren't as fat."

The clams on the Lam River not only provide a refreshing and sweet soup for families, but also a significant source of income for Mr. Hung's family in Hamlet 8. Although not fishermen, Mr. Hung and his wife are frequently present at this riverbank during clam season. Taking advantage of the warm, sunny weather, they use rakes and baskets to collect each clam. Each day, in just a few hours, they collect about 10 kg of clams in their shells, earning over 100,000 VND. Besides their four plots of leased rice fields, this is a substantial source of income that helps Mr. Hung stabilize his life and support his children's education.

It wasn't just Mr. and Mrs. Hung; Hoang, an 8th-grade student, also frequently visited this riverbank after school. Feeling sorry for his parents who toiled year-round in poverty, Hoang followed the villagers to the river to collect clams to sell. Holding a bag of about 5 kg of clams, waiting for traders, Hoang shyly looked at us and whispered, "I'm used to collecting clams, it's a lot of fun. A kilogram of clams in their shells sells for 11,000 dong. This much clams will bring in almost 60,000 dong." I could sense the joy and excitement in Hoang's eyes, even though his clothes were soaking wet and his face was covered in mud. It seemed that Hoang's childhood, and the childhood of so many children in Khanh Son commune, had been spent by this river, nurtured by the cool, sweet, and flavorful clam soup...

The Lam River carries a heavy load of silt, brimming with memories of joy and sorrow, its waters constantly nourishing and enriching the villages along its banks. The clams are firm and flavorful, their broth clear and sweet. In the summer, a bowl of clam soup with pickled eggplant or a plate of stir-fried clams with rice crackers can stir the longing of those far from home, reminding them of their homeland, their mothers, and their hardworking sisters by the riverbank.

Text and photos:Nguyen Le - Luong Thuy