Enchanted by the "green paradise"

(Baonghean) - If Pu Mat National Park is considered a "green paradise" in western Nghe An province, then Con Cuong district is considered the "heart" of that paradise. The pristine, majestic scenery; the friendly, hospitable people; the diverse and unique culture; and numerous heroic historical relics create a subtle charm that captivates visitors once they have touched the "heart of paradise."

Despite consulting numerous documents, it's difficult to ascertain the meaning of the name Con Cuông. My local friend, a researcher of Nghe An culture, only shared a brief folk theory with me: The section of the Lam River flowing through Con Cuông used to have a plot of land where peacocks would gather every evening. The locals called this area Con Công (Peacock), which later became Con Cuông. While this explanation isn't entirely accurate, it provided the impetus for a more interesting journey of over 100 kilometers from Vinh City to Con Cuông.

Khe Kèm Waterfall. Photo: Sỹ Minh

Nestled amidst vast, verdant forests and towering limestone mountains, Con Cuong town stands out as a vibrant and rare contrast to the tranquil villages woven from the traditional stilt houses of the Thai ethnic minority. Amidst this wild and captivating landscape, Con Cuong still preserves traces of a glorious history, closely linked to the great nation-building and defense efforts of the Vietnamese people. Not far from National Highway 7, on Thanh Nam mountain in Chi Khe commune, lies the Ma Nhai commemorative stele, inscribed on the mountainside by Nguyen Trung Ngan, recording the achievements of the Tran dynasty in repelling the Ai Lao invaders and securing the country's borders in the 14th century. According to Tran Manh Cuong, a researcher specializing in Han Nom (classical Chinese and Vietnamese script) at the Nghe An Provincial Library, "The stele's content is concise and succinct, yet it reflects the authority and determination of our ancestors in defending the country's borders. This is the oldest surviving Ma Nhai stele in our country to date." Con Cuong is also known as the "land of Tra Lan where bamboo splits and ashes fly" in Nguyen Trai's work Binh Ngo Dai Cao, which records the resounding and pivotal victory of Le Loi's rebel army in the resistance war against the Ming army in the 15th century.

But Con Cuong is not just about glorious historical milestones; it's also a land of magnificent scenic spots amidst the vast forests and unique local culture. Following the guidance of Mr. Le Thanh Do, Deputy Head of the Environmental Education and Ecotourism Department of Pu Mat National Park, we visited Khe Kem Waterfall, about 20 km from Con Cuong town. On a sweltering summer day, surrounded by wild mountains and forests, immersing ourselves in the cool water cascading down from hundreds of meters high brought a strangely relaxing feeling. Mr. Do said: "For a long time, Khe Kem Waterfall has been a favorite destination for many people in Con Cuong. In recent years, tourists from near and far have also heard about it and come to enjoy the cool air and admire the spectacular scenery of the waterfall, especially during the summer." Not far from Khe Kem Waterfall is a simple food area built from natural materials, which blends perfectly with the surrounding landscape. What impressed us most was the extremely sustainable approach to tourism here, where the menu doesn't include any wild animal products but instead features traditional local dishes such as grilled chicken, freshwater fish, and bamboo-cooked rice.

Our journey continued to Mon Son commune to explore the Pha Lai dam and upstream along the Giang River to the Dan Lai ethnic group, who sleep sitting up. The small motorboat sped along, its white reflections shimmering against the azure sky, transporting us into a world of endless green forests stretching to the horizon and a symphony of wildlife. Perhaps it was this pristine, diverse nature that led the ancestors of the Dan Lai people to choose this place as their dwelling during their escape from enemies, as the story of their formation continues to tell. Over the years, with the attention of the Party and the State, overcoming differences and obstacles, the Dan Lai people have truly integrated into the community life of the ethnic groups in Con Cuong district.

Our exploration of Con Cuong ended in Nua village, Yen Khe commune. In the peaceful setting of the Thai village, with its rows of tea plants and ancient stilt houses, we immersed ourselves in the life of the gentle and hospitable Thai people. For many years, the stilt house of Ms. Lo Thi Hoa's family has been a community tourism destination. For a very reasonable price, we enjoyed delicious traditional dishes prepared by the hostess herself. Afterwards, we continued to immerse ourselves in the traditional songs and melodies of the Thai people. The performers were members of the Nua Village Thai Folk Song Club. Beside the rice wine jars, the flickering firelight, and the simple songs of the beautiful Thai girls in their traditional dresses, life here was captivating. Life here flowed peacefully, seemingly more tranquil than ever before.

“Since implementing the community-based tourism model, my family has welcomed an average of 30 groups of tourists each year, including foreign visitors and tourists from as far away as Ho Chi Minh City and Bac Lieu... The additional income from tourism has helped stabilize our family's life,” Ms. Lo Thi Hoa happily shared, her hands nimbly working at her brocade weaving loom. “In the near future, in Nua village, we plan to open stalls displaying brocade products woven by the women in the village, creating more tourism products for visitors.”

Continuing the conversation about Ms. Hoa's plans, Mr. Le Thanh Do, Deputy Head of the Environmental Education and Ecotourism Department of Pu Mat National Park, said: “The community tourism program is implemented by Pu Mat National Park in collaboration with the Nghe An Tourism Promotion Center, the People's Committee of Con Cuong district, and relevant communes under the patronage of UNESCO. Through this program, the cultural identity of the Thai ethnic people in the Western Nghe An Biosphere Reserve is preserved and promoted; at the same time, it creates livelihoods and increases income for people during their leisure time, reducing the pressure of people on forest resources. This approach contributes to improving the living standards of people living in the buffer zone, while promoting and protecting the value of Pu Mat National Park.”

Our journey to the "heart of the green paradise of Pu Mat," though short, left us with many lasting impressions and fond memories. We will surely return soon to immerse ourselves in this land that the renowned scholar Phung Khac Khoan exclaimed upon his first visit: "The mountains are not high, the water is not deep / A landscape painting of one color, skillfully created." Indeed, once you arrive in Con Cuong, no matter where your feet lead you astray, we believe the pristine and captivating beauty of this land will gradually reveal itself, leading you into the world of a true "green paradise."

Nhat Le