Ho Sy Duong Street: "The eel porridge street"

(Baonghean) - Today I had a breakfast date with a friend from Hanoi who was visiting. When she called to ask for the address of the restaurant, I innocently replied:

- Tell the taxi driver to take you to the eel porridge restaurant on TV!

- Eel porridge on TV? That sounds strange! But what's the street name?

- What's the name of the street...? I hesitated, racking my brain but unable to remember the name of the street I'd frequented countless times. Reluctantly, I told my friend to just tell the taxi driver "TV-broadcast eel porridge," promising the driver would figure out the destination.

A stretch of "eel porridge street" on Ho Sy Duong road.

Sure enough, at exactly 7:30 a.m., as I cautiously approached my usual eel porridge stall, I saw my friend standing right in front of the small road next to the provincial post office, a place that has long been the city's "porridge paradise." Only then did I look up at the street sign and exclaim, "So this is Ho Sy Duong Street!" My friend chuckled and teased me, "You brag about eating eel porridge every day, but you can't even remember the street name?" I just scratched my head and smiled awkwardly, not knowing how to explain my forgetfulness or thoughtlessness.

A stall selling eel porridge.

Actually, most people from Vinh who come here to eat eel porridge probably don't pay much attention to the street name, but rather call it by the familiar names "television eel porridge" or "post office eel porridge." It's called "post office eel porridge" because the street is right next to the provincial post office. As for why it's called "television eel porridge"? I once asked the owner of the porridge shop I frequent and received this answer:

- I don't know either. Maybe it's because back then, when the city was less populated and didn't have as many high-rise buildings as it does now, the television tower was one of the city's prominent landmarks, so they associated this area with the name "television." And the people working at the television station often came here for breakfast or late-night snacks. Perhaps the name "television eel porridge" came from that habit of theirs?

Another reason why the "eel porridge street" is called "television porridge street" is that Vinh Television Station (the regional station) used to be located right on this street. This area was also the residence of most of the officials, reporters, and employees of Nghe An Radio and Television Station.

The stories of the women selling porridge in this alley are always so simple and unpretentious. But somehow, every time I visit the stall, sitting leisurely, eating each spoonful of steaming hot porridge, listening to their stories, and sipping a couple of sips of bitter tea, the ordinary morning suddenly becomes strangely poetic. But it's not the kind of poetic beauty that's far removed from some rosy sky; rather, it's a gentler, warmer, and more forgiving way of seeing and feeling the life around me. It's the story of a little boy who, every morning, rode his bicycle, carrying a lunchbox, to the stall to buy porridge for his grandfather's breakfast. He'd been doing this regularly for years, but then one day the stall was suddenly silent, devoid of the familiar cheerful chatter and laughter. A week later, the boy with the lunchbox reappeared, his face downcast, telling everyone that his grandfather had gone south to visit his youngest uncle's family and wouldn't be back for over a month. Sometimes the story of the day is simply a conversation between a mother and her elementary school-aged daughter:

- Bim, eat your food so you can go to school. Do you need Mommy to feed you?

- No, no, Mom will let Bim eat by himself. Bim is in second grade, he's big now. Only little kids in first grade let their moms feed them.

With that, the little girl puffed out her cheeks, blew on the porridge, and ate it herself with determination. The shop owner, understanding her intention, praised her, "She's in second grade and already this big, yet she's so good at feeding herself!" Encouraged by her mother and everyone in the shop, the little girl smiled broadly, and in just a moment, the bowl of porridge was empty.

These are just everyday stories from life, not some far-fetched fairy tale, but they leave a very sweet, very real aftertaste. I wonder if that's why the eel porridge here is so popular with diners in the city, even though eel porridge restaurants in Vinh are popping up everywhere, and the "Nghe An-style eel porridge" brand is becoming increasingly well-known, even to diners from outside the province. My friend from the North tried this Nghe An specialty for the first time today, and she kept praising how delicious it was. Her face flushed from the heat of the porridge, and the warm, spicy flavor of the eel, she explained:

- Actually, I've eaten eel porridge before, but the eel in the North is dried, chewy and crunchy, not soft and firm like this. And this is also the first time I've seen the actual shape of an eel. It looks a bit scary, but the taste is absolutely delicious. It's a cool, breezy autumn day with a little drizzle; eating this is just perfect!

The owner, a cheerful and outgoing woman, happily joined in the conversation when a customer praised the food: "It's rare to find someone from the North who can handle such spiciness. Next time you visit, tell us how much spicier you want, how much eel you prefer, and we'll accommodate your requests." She then confided that although her porridge shop was small, it was the main source of income for her family for generations. She explained that there used to be only one porridge shop in this alley, but whether it was due to the alley's location, the owner's friendly and hospitable nature, or the delicious and authentic taste of the eel, customers flocked to it. The family prospered, and the business was passed down through generations, with the children diligently tending to the steaming pot of porridge, ensuring prosperity and abundance for the whole family. Gradually, other shops sprang up, lining this small alley. But here, there's no fierce competition between the stalls; everyone minds their own business, and it's peaceful and friendly, like neighbors supporting each other. Even the customers eating at the porridge stalls seem to have "caught" this gentle, calm atmosphere, and even though the stalls stay open until late at night or early morning, there has never been a fight or brawl here.

Previously, these early morning and late-night porridge stalls typically catered to laborers, for whom time for eating and sleeping was a luxury, even a waste. Now, however, the clientele is increasingly diverse. There are workers and civil servants whose neatness is evident in their gentle expressions and the pristine, carefully ironed collars of their white shirts. There are also students excitedly coming in for a warm bowl of porridge to fill their stomachs after strenuous study sessions. And there are elderly people with their grandchildren, always ordering a bowl of plain, less spicy porridge, watching their grandchildren eat with relish, their aged faces beaming with an indescribable happiness.

To cater to the increasingly diverse needs of diners, the eateries here not only sell eel porridge and chicken porridge but also add other attractive dishes such as eel soup, fish soup, chicken stew, shredded chicken, rice noodles, spring rolls, etc. Ho Sy Duong Street has become a culinary "paradise" day and night without anyone realizing it, but the names "post office eel porridge" or "television eel porridge" have been familiar to the people of Vinh City for a long time. Even if people don't come here specifically to eat eel porridge, they've become accustomed to it and often refer to each other as "television eel porridge," and that's enough for everyone to understand without needing any further explanation. It's a trusted address, due to habit and the warmth it brings, not only to the senses when enjoying a delicious meal but also to the soul each early morning or late at night, reflecting on life and people.

Text and photos:Hai Trieu