New rice celebration

(Baonghean) - Coming to the West at this time, when the rice fields have begun to ripen, when the heavy rice grains are on the racks, visitors from afar will surely be treated to a meal of new sticky rice by the villagers. The sticky and fragrant aroma of the new sticky rice seems to permeate almost all the senses and leaves behind many unforgettable aftertastes, even if only enjoyed once. But if you are lucky enough to come about 3 weeks before the harvest season, visitors from afar will have the opportunity to attend the new rice celebration ceremony, and even after tasting all the delicacies, they will still remember the new rice celebration meal of the highlanders.

According to the custom of many generations, when the rice in the fields reaches the stage of green firmness, that is, when the rice is round and still full of milk but not yet ripe, people harvest a little to celebrate the new rice. The green rice bundles are harvested, beaten to get the grains, boiled and dried in the sun. Then, they continue to hang on the kitchen roof to ensure that the grains are both dry and crispy. About a week later, they are taken down to pound and remove the husk, to get the firm glutinous rice grains. The glutinous rice grains are thoroughly kneaded and soaked in water for a few hours, then placed on the pot. According to the people of the highlands, if you want the sticky rice to be delicious and retain its flavor, you must use wooden pots, the type of pots that have been used for generations, not aluminum pots like the people in the lowlands still use. When the fragrant aroma comes from the pot on the stove, that is when the sticky rice is just cooked.

Sticky rice is placed on a tray with familiar foods such as chicken, pork, beef, fish and wine and then offered to the altar of ancestors and gods. The male host lights a few incense sticks in front of the altar to express gratitude to the ancestors and gods for blessing them with favorable weather, good harvests, good health, and a peaceful life in the past year, and does not forget to invite them to enjoy it together. The fragrant incense smoke and solemn atmosphere make the new rice celebration sacred.

The joy of a good harvest for the people of Quynh village, Xieng My commune (Tuong Duong)

When the incense burns out, the food tray is served. In addition to family members, the new rice celebration is also attended by neighbors and relatives from near and far. The sticky rice spreads a fragrant aroma. This is the blend of the aroma of cereals, of young rice grains still containing milk, of flowers, of dew drops on the cotton and the accumulation of mountain and forest scents. Besides, the attractive taste of foods that are typical of the mountains and forests of the West makes the meal even more attractive. Next to the jar of fragrant rice wine, everyone shares their feelings. From stories about the harvest to stories about the village, and even personal stories, all are brought up to contribute to the joy of the new rice celebration.

When the wine has soaked in, everyone sings the "lam" and "xoi" songs, and the gongs, the "pi" and the "khen" sounds one after another and then harmonize together. The charming "lam vong" dance begins, and the "xoe" circle is opened wider. At this moment, the land, the village and the people seem to join in the same rhythm to celebrate a year of good harvest, to celebrate a new meal filled with love. The fragrance, the singing, the "khen" and the dance stir the hearts of the visitors from the lowlands...

Cong Kien