Tran Quang Dieu Street - A familiar corner

DNUM_CDZBCZCABD 14:11

(Baonghean) -The long, secluded street, crisscrossed by many small and large streets, and with rapid changes... makes many people "unable to remember a single street name". Strangely, even those who have lived on the street for a long time, suddenly rarely show off that they live on that street or that road; it seems to be to keep for themselves a personal feeling attached to the street. Tran Quang Dieu Street (Vinh City), people from other streets often find it hard to imagine the name when they hear it, but when they get there, they realize how many times they have passed by and sat on the street...

Phía Đông đường Trần Quang Diệu (Thành phố Vinh).
East of Tran Quang Dieu Street (Vinh City).

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That is what I have heard from many close friends, new acquaintances and even random encounters. In the leisurely mornings sipping or rushing to work over a cup of coffee on Tran Quang Dieu Street, many Vinh people implicitly acknowledge that it is a coffee street with more than a dozen large and small coffee shops crowded with customers morning and evening. The street name has been attached to the street for 16 years now (since 1997). Tran Quang Dieu Street runs for more than a kilometer, the northern end connects to Phan Dang Luu Street, running next to Nghe An Guest House, the southern end connects to Le Duan Street. The street is located entirely in Truong Thi Ward and runs parallel to Truong Thi Street outside Ho Chi Minh Square. More than a century ago, the street surface was the foundation of the Confucian examination school during the Nguyen Dynasty and then the French built a railway factory.

Several decades ago, the street was the facade of the level 4 offices of many provincial departments and agencies. At that time, the street was only paved with graded gravel, with a small path through vegetable fields and peanut fields to Truong Thi Street for people to go to and from work at the departments and agencies... When the headquarters of the agencies were built on the west side to follow Truong Thi Street, Tran Quang Dieu Street was expanded thanks to the planning of residential areas on the east side of the street. But the street still has a quietness that makes people from other streets come and only remember the path but forget the street name. Perhaps, because the residents are mostly civil servants, children from kindergartens, parents who go to work in the morning and come back in the evening, the shopping services on the main street have not yet spread here, so there is little street interaction?...

Just a few years ago, the street still had a quiet look, the late autumn wind lingering with the scent of milk flowers, with few visitors coming to simple coffee shops with names like Moc, 4A, and especially Quynh Coffee with the owner who is crazy about electronics, has music systems costing up to tens of thousands of dollars, specializes in Trinh music, Pham Duy, Van Cao, Nguyen Van Thuong... with old vinyl records recording Khanh Ly, Kieu Hung, Tran Hieu from decades ago. In the small street corners, there were only a few shops selling roasted peanut beer, better off were the third-class beef tendon soup, but the restaurant ladies all had a graceful and customer-friendly appearance, so they gathered all kinds of customers, civil servants, workers, retired teachers.

Now, in addition to the agencies: the Provincial Police Immigration Department, the Health Protection Board for Cadres, the headquarters of Truong Thi Ward... which have maintained their appearance for decades; then, along the two sides of the street, there are rapid changes due to the continuous renovation of level 4 houses to three or four floors, land clearance to build modern apartment buildings and hotels, and especially small coffee shops and restaurants springing up at a dizzying speed to attract customers, making the street much more bustling, but there is absolutely no hustle and bustle often seen in the streets...

Perhaps, someone said that each street has its own duty, which is true for Tran Quang Dieu street. People from all over Vinh come here to find relaxation in meetings and work. Next to the 67 coffee shop (a gathering place for Honda 67 enthusiasts) is the house of a famous retired musician. Every morning, he leisurely rides his motorbike to attend the provincial professional association with a strange satisfaction because of the peace of the beloved crowded street. Opposite the musician's house is the villa of a widowed contractor, over 70 years old but with rosy skin, dressed young, driving a luxury car, silver hair sprayed with "hair gel" but still has the elegance of an experienced person; he is familiar at every breakfast restaurant, every coffee shop on the street, absolutely no one has ever seen him lacking in moderation.

The street is elegant, even the shoe shiner is handsome like a movie star, whether it is a fancy shoe or a commoner's shoe, he polishes every detail meticulously, but still charges the same price and only ten thousand dong, as it has been for three or four years. The crowded street is also familiar with a disabled man in a wheelchair, no one knows where his house is, but every morning he is busy closing his withered legs and rolling his wheelchair along the street, not asking anyone for help, but every time he comes to an intersection, he patiently stops, waiting for an acquaintance to ask him to push his wheelchair across the street, it turns out he is collecting human affection...

What is strange is that in this street, morning, noon and evening it is crowded with people drinking coffee, bustling with people enjoying food, but still quiet in the same style, rarely noisy, rarely rude words, the host and guest are like soul mates. I have been in the street for three years, seeing with my own eyes the rapid changes of the street. But my soul is always in the enchanting scent of milk flowers in late autumn wafting along the street; in the quiet of the late night street where even people walking for exercise seem to try to walk lightly; in the occasional moment beside the rough concrete blocks of the street, not necessarily covered with moss, not necessarily to be intentional, stereoscopic evidence on the flat sidewalk along the wall of Truong Thi Secondary School, speaking in the words of the street that these are what is left of the old Truong Thi railway factory so that anyone who loves the street can stop and sit on them, satisfied with the time when the street was born...

Tran Quang Dieu Street intersects more than a dozen large and small streets named after great celebrities (An Duong Vuong, Dinh Bat Tuy, Ngo Sy Lien, Tran Thu Do...); people going in and out of the street communities from Phong Dinh Cang Street up or from Truong Thi Street up and down the East-West axis, become familiar with the names of the streets running across it, which is also a reason why people easily forget the name of Tran Quang Dieu Street, although they cannot forget that, if they want to stay, meet, and relax a bit on that "horizontal journey", they cannot help but find a small space on this longitudinal street following familiar footsteps that have come and gone many times.

It's late winter. There's no misty morning mist around the lake, no bustling dusty streets in the morning... but on a rare sunny morning, in the cold waiting for spring at this time, anyone who loves Vinh street, should try coming to Tran Quang Dieu street, sipping a cup of coffee at the "coffee street", surely you will feel the rare humility of a new street in the Red city...

Tran Quang Dieu was one of the key generals of the Tay Son uprising (his hometown is currently unclear); his wife was Admiral Bui Thi Xuan, another famous general of the Tay Son dynasty. After the victory of Ky Dau in 1789, Tran Quang Dieu, who was then in the central army commanded by Nguyen Hue (later Emperor Quang Trung), was appointed governor of Nghe An, both in charge of the garrison and in charge of building the Phuong Hoang Trung Do citadel here... Later, under the reign of King Quang Trung and King Canh Thinh (Quang Toan), he made many great contributions and was promoted to the rank of Thai Pho. When the Tay Son army officially lost to the Nguyen army, in early 1802 Tran Quang Dieu led his troops and elephants through Laos to Nghe An to join forces with King Canh Thinh. But when they reached Quy Hop district and entered Huong Son land, they heard that Nghe An citadel had fallen, so Tran Quang Dieu and his wife and children returned to Thanh Chuong district. A few days later, his entire family was captured alive by the Nguyen army and was later sentenced to death. His name is used as the name of streets in many cities across the country.

Sam Temple

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Tran Quang Dieu Street - A familiar corner
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