Expressing gratitude for enduring hardships.

(Baonghean) - July - the month of remembrance and gratitude, we traveled along National Highway 7A, braving the sun and wind to the midland countryside of Anh Son, home to the Vietnam-Laos International Martyrs' Cemetery. The scorching sun beat down on this land, often described as a "furnace" in Central Vietnam during the summer, making the journey for relatives from all regions seem even longer.

However, upon stopping in the small town and stepping into the cemetery grounds, the weariness of the long journey vanished, replaced by a feeling of relief and tranquility. In front of the cemetery, a serene space stretched out before me: lush green trees, bamboo groves swaying in the breeze, and pine trees rustling in the wind, harmonizing with the chirping of birds. The oppressive summer heat was somewhat dispelled.

Out there, where rows of graves are neatly arranged, the cemetery management staff are still diligently working. Some sweep up fallen leaves, others meticulously remove clumps of grass clinging to the graves, and still others adjust the incense burners—all with their backs exposed to the scorching sun.

A view of the Vietnam-Laos Martyrs' Cemetery. Photo: Quang Dung

While working in the cemetery, Nguyen Sy Sau, a staff member in charge of managing the list and graves of fallen soldiers, approached relatives of martyrs to greet them and enthusiastically guide them. When asked about his daily work, Mr. Sau shared: “Nominally, each person here is assigned a task, but in reality, one person has to handle many things. As for caring for and offering incense to nearly 11,000 graves in the cemetery, it is a daily shared task for all staff members, regardless of rain or shine...”

After visiting the graves of our loved ones, it was already late afternoon. We approached the cemetery staff to have a chance to chat with these people who perform this quiet but incredibly meaningful work. Besides Mr. Nguyen Sy Sau (born in 1973), there were five other employees also diligently working, even though it was past office hours.

The longest-serving employee is Ms. Nguyen Thi Thu Hien (born in 1977), who has been working there for 18 years. Graduating with a degree in Tourism, Ms. Hien applied and was accepted when the Vietnam-Laos Cemetery Management Board was recruiting staff. Initially, Ms. Hien and her family were apprehensive and worried. For a young woman just over 20 years old, taking on the responsibility of caring for nearly 11,000 martyrs' graves in such a sacred place, such anxiety was understandable. Therefore, her intention was to work temporarily, waiting to find another job before requesting a transfer. But over time, her initial worries faded, and she felt increasingly attached to the cemetery.

Every day, her job is to welcome relatives of fallen soldiers, visitors to the cemetery, and to clean the gravesites. On sunny days, she covers her head completely, wears a face mask and sun-protective clothing; on rainy days, she wears a hat and a raincoat, and together with her colleagues, she cleans and tidies the nearly 7-hectare cemetery grounds.

Staff of the Vietnam-Laos Cemetery Management Board sweep and weed around the graves of fallen soldiers. Photo: Cong Kien

Having been here for so many years, Ms. Nguyen Thi Thu Hien has countless memories, but she will never forget one time when two relatives of fallen soldiers from Thanh Chuong district came to the cemetery. They were traveling together on a bicycle when their tire punctured, so they arrived just as darkness fell and it was raining heavily. Hungry and cold, and penniless, Mr. Nguyen Xuan Uy (the Head of the Management Board at the time) and Ms. Hien shared their dinner with the two relatives. After dinner, the two asked to stay overnight at the Management Board's office. Ms. Hien cleaned up the reception room, went home to get blankets and mosquito nets, and brought them over...

Mr. Nguyen Sy Sau is also one of the long-serving employees at the Vietnam-Laos Cemetery. In 2004, while working as a transportation worker, he requested a transfer to this cemetery and was assigned the task of managing the list and graves of fallen soldiers. Over 13 years of work, Mr. Sau is familiar with every grave, knows the exact location and number of each grave, and remembers the gravestones of approximately 3,000 fallen soldiers with complete information; and 500 fallen soldiers lacking information about their hometown, unit, and name (knowing their name but not their hometown, or knowing their hometown but not their name).

Besides that, like other staff members, Mr. Sau also participates daily in welcoming relatives, cleaning the grounds, and caring for the graves. Interestingly, among the nearly 11,000 martyrs resting here, Mr. Nguyen Sy Sau's older brother died in the Laotian battlefield. This is another source of motivation and a calling that keeps him dedicated to this sacred place.

On the 15th day of the lunar month and during holidays and festivals, the martyrs' graves are cared for with incense and fresh flowers. Photo: Cong Kien

Furthermore, Mr. Sau's family currently lives in Do Luong, and he only gets to visit home for 5-6 days each month, dedicating the rest of his time to his work at the cemetery. His wife often jokes that he spends most of his time caring for the deceased, leaving only a small portion for his family and children. At such times, he just smiles and says, "The heroes and martyrs spared no blood, bones, or lives; my work is just a grain of sand in the vast ocean!"

Managing the list and graves of fallen soldiers, whenever relatives come to request the exhumation of remains to be brought back to their hometowns, or transferred from other locations to the Vietnam-Laos Cemetery, Mr. Sau is responsible for all related procedures and tasks. Relatives rarely give advance notice, and the exhumation often takes place late at night, so he always has to be present and assist in everything. Sometimes, even on his days off, after driving 50 kilometers home, he would barely have time to eat dinner before receiving a call from a relative requesting the transfer of a fallen soldier's remains. Even in the middle of the night and in the pouring rain, Mr. Sau would rush back to perform his duty. That week, he practically had no days off, only seeing his wife and children for less than an hour. Despite the demanding work, Mr. Sau always keeps one thing in mind: he must fulfill his responsibility to those who have fallen...

Among the six staff members, Nguyen Thi Ngan (born in 1985) is the youngest in both age and experience. Ngan started the job in 2009, her main task being to explain and introduce relevant information about the cemetery to visiting groups. Many people have shed tears when they come here, crying because they witness the vast expanse of graves, because of her gentle, expressive, and heartwarming voice. Few know that Ngan's family circumstances are very difficult, as she and her husband live separately. Her husband is a teacher, and their home is in Phong Thinh commune, Thanh Chuong district, about 40 kilometers from Anh Son town. Ngan and her child are currently staying temporarily with her parents in Tuong Son commune (Anh Son), more than 10 kilometers from her workplace, and the small family only reunites a few times a month. Because of her work, with understanding and support, Ngan's husband always encourages her to overcome difficulties and strive to complete her duties.

Mr. Hoang Danh Trung, Head of the Vietnam-Laos Cemetery Management Board, said: “The management board consists of 2 leaders and 6 staff members. Managing and caring for nearly 11,000 graves across an area of ​​7 hectares is truly overwhelming, and the work is very quiet and largely unknown. While monthly income is only 3-4 million VND, life is still difficult, but everyone is dedicated to the job, always keeping in mind that they are contributing to society's gratitude and respect for those who fell for independence and freedom.”

Cong Kien