Sacred meditation space of Co Am Tu

Co Am Tu, also known as Co Am Pagoda (Dien Minh, Dien Chau, Nghe An) has a history of several hundred years (since the 15th century). At first, it was just a small temple on Ho Linh rock mountain called Am Son Tu. Later, it became more and more sacred and was restored, and its reputation spread throughout the region.

The story goes that someone knew that the mountain had a strong vitality, so he discussed with the villagers to move the pagoda to the foot of the mountain for easier travel; he moved his family's grave up the mountain for burial, but it failed, the village was disturbed, the other person had to apologize to the villagers and ask to restore the old pagoda.

Co Am Pagoda. Photo: Quoc Khanh

After the land reform, Co Am Pagoda was left abandoned and around the pagoda there were also two events that marked history, which were the bloody battle between Le and Mac between Lai Quan Cong Phan Cong Tinh and Mac general Nguyen Quyen in the swamp below Hai Vai mountain. At the last minute, the famous Le general was surrounded and died in the battle. He fought left and right but could not get out, most of his soldiers had fallen.

Nguyen Quyen knew that General Phan was a brave man and immediately expressed his gratitude: "Lai huynh, please surrender." Before General Mac could finish speaking, General Phan stood on the elephant's chopping block: "Here are my intestines, take them out for you to see" and he committed suicide. At that time, the sky was clear and the clouds were gone. Soldiers on both sides were shocked by that scene. Heaven and earth seemed to understand the brave man. Suddenly, in the southwest, there was a thunderclap that shook the heavens and the earth. The people mourned and later built a temple to General Phan in Hao Kiet village (his hometown) not far away, called Doc Loi temple.

Quiet afternoon in the courtyard of Co Am Pagoda. Photo by Quoc Khanh

To the west of the pagoda, there was Len market. During the anti-American war, bombs were fired here in a disastrous battle, killing many people. In Yen Thanh and Dien Chau, there is usually a day and some villages have this day, called the village's common death anniversary. Len market also has this day for the people of the two districts.

Around 2010, Buddhism spread to Nghe An and Dien Chau; people longed for it and looked forward to it so much that some cried when the first stones were dropped, marking the revival of Co Am Tu, under the guidance of monk Thich Chan Tinh, a famous monk of Hoang Phap Pagoda (Ho Chi Minh City).

Statues on the cliff. Photo: Quoc Khanh

After several years of construction with tens of billions of dong in donations and sponsorship, the leveling of ponds, foundations, main hall, multi-storey houses, incense towers, and the construction of Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara in a cave and on the mountain top are almost complete...

This is a place of practice, a spiritual wonder, for both monks and lay people to worship. Every night, the upper hall resounds with the solemn sound of bells and the choir of Buddhist chants. The monks, together with the people and fellow believers, sweat and worry, and contribute to give us the magnificent Co Am Tu Pagoda today.

Behind the temple. Photo: Quoc Khanh

Next to Thuong Pagoda, there is a giant cave, since the time of Cao Xuan Duc - a famous person of Nguyen Dynasty - this cave has been recorded, very strange and mysterious and supernaturally serene. Many people come here, kneeling in the silence of space, under the attentive and protective gaze of Quan Am and Tien Ong (two large statues in the cave) to open their hearts to Buddhism; then look up to see the bats flickering through the light, or bend down to the clear pool of water in the rock cavity to take a cool sip, feeling for themselves the miracle of Buddhism bestowed by nature.

Statue of Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara in front of two shoulders. Photo: Quoc Khanh

After chanting in the main hall, Buddhists should climb to the foot of the statue of the Three-Faced Bodhisattva Avalokitesvara on the mountain, in the sunset, to admire the vast green Cave of Worship, Con Voi Mountain, Than Vu Cave, the shadow of which covers the world, then the Southeast of Hai Vai Mountain suddenly rises up like a burden supporting the sky and earth; to the north, Bung Giang is like a silver sheet winding around like a dragon, to the west, Vinh Tuy Cliff, pensively next to Thap Mountain like a swallow wanting to fly to a distant land. On all four sides, there are vast green fields, flat rivers and streams, and undulating villages.

Inside Co Am Pagoda. Photo: Quoc Khanh

Then, Dien Chau connects with Yen Thanh to form a unique spiritual tourism complex: From Cuong Temple (Legendary Thuc Phan An Duong Vuong to So Temple - Bung Temple on the legendary Long Cuong So mound) will connect with Lum Temple, Co Am Tu, and beyond to connect with the complex of Yen Thanh: Vinh Tuy, Dong Tho, Gam Pagoda, promising an interesting journey for visitors from near and far.

Co Am Pagoda is a famous spiritual destination in Dien Chau district. Photo: Quoc Khanh