Society

Sedimentary deposits at the foot of Bu Dang mountain

Tien Dong • June 25, 2025 15:02

At the foot of the majestic mountain ranges, the land of Muong Mieng – now Chau Hoi and Chau Nga communes, Quy Chau district – quietly preserves the historical and cultural traditions of the ethnic groups living there.

Author: Tien Dong - Technical support: Diep Thanh
Publication date: June 24, 2025

At the foot of the majestic mountain ranges, the land of Muong Mieng – now the communes of Chau Hoi and Chau Nga in Quy Chau district – quietly preserves the historical and cultural traditions of the ethnic groups living there.

Muoi Muoi sedimentng

From Vinh City, traveling over 145 kilometers northwest along National Highway 48, we ascended to Quy Chau District, a land steeped in historical and cultural layers. Here, time has not obscured the past but transformed it into a vibrant testament, connecting the past, present, and hinting at the future. This is considered the ancient land of the Thai people. Every stilt house, every folk dance, every pattern on the traditional Thai clothing tells a story passed down through generations.

There, the ancient footprints of the Vietnamese people are still imprinted in Tham Om Cave, followed by the ups and downs of the land during the migration and settlement towards the west of Nghe An. Each wave of people, each transformation of the mountains and forests, has settled into a unique and distinct realm of accumulation.

Stopping at Chau Hoi and Chau Nga, at the foot of Bu Dang mountain, amidst the vast mountain ranges and under the setting sun, we felt as if we were touching memories. We then retraced the footsteps of the Lam Son rebels during their resistance against the Ming invaders in the 15th century, or of the courageous Can Vuong fighters in the treacherous forests during their resistance against the French in the late 19th century. Here, amidst the wild mountains and forests, the echoes of loyalty and the aspiration to defend the nation seem to resonate forever.

Chau Hoi and Chau Nga are almost entirely nestled within the depression between the two mountain ranges of Pu Hoat and Pu Khang, formerly known as Muong Mieng, a region with a large ethnic minority population.Thai ethnic groupliving here. From the dawn of history to the present day, this land has undergone many changes in the residential areas of its communities. In particular, many ethnic groups have emerged and lived together, such as the Tho, Mong, and Khmu…

According to the Quy Chau Gazetteer, although originating from different ethnic groups, each took pride in their contribution to transforming nature, building a better life, and creating changes in all aspects of the Quy Chau land. In those days, Quy Chau had thriving economic, cultural, and social centers, such as Ta Chum, Muong Chai, and Ke Bon… with extensive connections not only with other districts in the region but also with the border (Laos) and with the mountainous regions of Thanh Hoa and Northwest Vietnam. The administrative apparatus of the prefectures, districts, and villages was constantly strengthened; a standing army and militia were established to prevent attacks from external forces and protect the peace of the villages.

The relationship between ethnic communities, the solidarity, love, and mutual assistance among ethnic groups, is becoming increasingly strong. This stable and positive relationship has created conditions for the coexistence and development of people of all ethnic groups, building a cultural identity that reflects both the common characteristics of the Vietnamese nation and the unique features of each ethnic group in the district.Quy Chau.

However, today's Quy Chau district has undergone many changes in its administrative units, and its ethnic composition is no longer the same as before. Along with migration and resettlement, the population structure has shifted significantly. But it is precisely within this blending that the core values ​​of ancient Thai culture are still preserved.

The spirit of the highlands

Following the directions of the Chau Hoi Commune People's Committee officials, we went to Don village to meet Mr. Lang Van Ngo – the former Secretary of the Chau Hoi Commune Party Committee. Mr. Ngo is a descendant of Commander Lang Van Thiet, one of the brave sons of Muong Mieng land.

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The land at the foot of Mount Bu Dang once witnessed a battle renowned in history, depicted by Nguyen Trai in two famous lines of poetry in the Binh Ngo Dai Cao (Proclamation of Victory over the Wu): "The Battle of Bo Dang resounded with thunder and lightning / In Tra Lan, bamboo was shattered, ashes flew."

Mr. Lang Van Ngo - former Secretary of the Party Committee of Chau Hoi commune

Mr. Ngo recounted that, since ancient times, the Chau Hoi area, along with Chau Nga, had become a strategically important location. From this area, it was easy to travel north to Nhu Xuan (Thanh Hoa) and west to Ai Lao (present-day Laos). In particular, the land at the foot of Bu Dang mountain (also known as Bo Lap, Bo Cu, Bo Dang, Bu Don...) witnessed a battle that resonated throughout history, depicted by Nguyen Trai in two famous lines from the Binh Ngo Dai Cao (Proclamation of Victory over the Wu): "The Battle of Bo Dang was thunderous and lightning flashed / In Tra Lan, bamboo was split and ashes flew."

Historical records state that in 1424, Le Loi decided to advance into Nghe An following the strategy of General Nguyen Chich (some sources refer to him as Le Chich). According to Nguyen Chich, "Nghe An is a strategically important place, with vast territory and a large population… to seize Nghe An as a base, and then, relying on the strength and resources of that land, to attack Dong Do (Hanoi), we can achieve the goal of pacifying the entire country."

In October 1424, the Lam Son rebels advanced along the "upper road" into the mountainous region of Nghe An, their first objective being to capture Tra Lan citadel. However, upon crossing the Bu Dang mountains, the rebels were ambushed by 5,000 troops under Cam Banh and Cam Lan; Ming generals Tran Tri, Ly An, Phuong Chinh, and Thai Phuc pursued them from behind. Taking advantage of the darkness, Le Loi ambushed the rebels in the forest, launching a surprise attack that annihilated over 2,000 enemy soldiers, including the commander Tran Trung, and seized many weapons and over 100 horses.

Today, Bu Dang Mountain serves as a natural boundary separating Chau Hoi and Chau Nga communes, but beneath this mountain, stories of the resounding victory of the Lam Son rebels 600 years ago are still remembered.

We lingered with Mr. Ngo for quite a while. He enthusiastically recounted stories of local history and culture, about how, as a child, he had followed his friends up Bu Dang mountain and found ceramic tobacco pipes, believed to be relics from the time of the Lam Son rebels. He said, "Muong Mieng was once a center of gathering for the ancient Thai people, from large clans like Lang and Luong... It was here that Mr. Thiet established a resistance base, a place to hide weapons, raise troops, and participate in the Can Vuong movement."

Mr. Lang Van Thiet was the son of Lang Van Thu, a military officer under Emperor Tu Duc (Nguyen Dynasty). From a young age, he was trained in martial arts by his father, and he was fond of archery and swordsmanship. Growing up strong and well-connected, he gained great prestige in the community. Later, his maternal uncle, the Prefect of Quy Chau, entrusted him with the position of military commander, hence he was also known as Commander Thiet. Responding to the Can Vuong movement, he led the people of Chau Hoi and Chau Nga in fighting against the French. He also coordinated with the resistance forces of Cam Ba Thuoc in Thanh Hoa, establishing this area as an important base.

After many years of participating in the resistance, Lang Van Thiet was captured by the enemy after a battle in Thanh Nga village, Chau Nga commune. He was beheaded by the French colonialists and his head displayed on an apple tree near his house, now Khun village, Chau Hoi commune. Today, Lang Van Thiet has two graves in two different locations. One is in Khun village (Chau Hoi), right at the base of the apple tree, and the other is on the edge of Tong Huong field, Mun village (Chau Nga commune). His grave site was recognized as a historical relic in 1998.

After our conversation with Mr. Lang Van Ngo, we were enthusiastically guided by Mr. Lang Van Cuong, Vice Chairman of the Chau Hoi Commune People's Committee, along a rocky mountain path to the foot of Bu Dang. Standing halfway up the mountain, the May sky in Quy Chau was crystal clear. From here, we could see a vast expanse of green hills rustling in the wind, stretching from Chau Hoi Commune to Chau Nga Commune like a giant carpet. The fertile fields, with rice paddies interspersed with cultivated land, meandered along the Hieu River. Bu Dang is not just a place name, but a place where spiritual energy converges.

Mr. Cuong also led us to the tombs of Mr. Lang Van Thiet, which have been recognized as historical sites. However, when we arrived at the tomb in the Tong Huong rice field, even amidst the vast expanse of rice paddies, beside the quiet Mun stream flowing into the Hieu River, we still felt a pang of unease, as the tomb was heartbreakingly lonely.

Leaving Bu Dang as the sun was setting, the bluish smoke had already enveloped the mountains. With a firm handshake, the Vice Chairman of the Chau Hoi Commune People's Committee, Lang Van Cuong, said wistfully, “Nowadays, every festival season, in the communes of Chau Hoi and Chau Nga, right at the foot of Bu Dang, the sounds of gongs and drums still echo, evoking memories of the past. Young men and women sing love songs, and the elderly sit and tell stories about Mr. Thiet and those who have passed away. Amidst the laughter and the sound of the flute, there is still a lingering, unspoken pride. We are very proud.”

Going forward, during the reorganization of administrative boundaries, Chau Hoi commune and Chau Nga commune, which share a common origin from the ancient Muong Mieng region, will be merged into a new administrative unit.

This opens up hope for developing this place into a unique cultural region, bearing the mark of "a land of outstanding people and rich history"...